No picture can ever adequately represent the bazaar, not even a moving
picture; for besides the unending kaleidoscopic changes of coloring, as
brightly dressed peddlers and purchasers move hither and thither, there
is a ceaseless, deafening, indescribable and untranslatable tumult of
sound. Yet to one who understands Arabic, this is more than noise: it is
music, poetry and romance. The hawker of each commodity uses a peculiarly
worded appeal which, in eloquent circumlocution, extols the virtues of
his wares. These calls are usually rhyming; often they include one of the
ninety-nine sacred titles of Allah, and frequently they are sung to a set
tune. Back and forth through the perilously crowded streets they go—boys
with great trays of sweetmeats on their heads, men with tubs of pickled
vegetables, peasants bearing heavy loads of fresh figs, water-carriers
stooping low under their goatskin bottles, peddlers of cakes and nuts
and sherbets and the nosegays which the Syrian gentleman loves to
hold—literally under his nose—as he strolls through the city. All are
shouting their wares. “Oh, thirsty one!” “Oh, father of a family!” “Oh,
Thou who givest food!” “Allay the heat!” “Rest for the throat!” When
Abraham passed through Damascus he doubtless heard these same cries.
If we are driving, as is possible in the wider bazaars, our gallant
coachman adds to the din as he proudly snaps his long whip, toots the
strident automobile horn which is now affixed to all Damascus carriages
and, in courteous gentleness or bawling rage or sighing relief, keeps up
an unintermitting flow of Arabic adjuration to the passers-by whom he
almost, but never quite, runs down. “Look out for your back! Hurry up,
uncle! Your back, your back!—may your house be destroyed! Your right,
lady! Your left, sir! Slowly, oh, inmates of the harem! Oh, pilgrim,
your back! Child, beware! Your back, my friend! _Your back!_ YOUR BACK!
E-e-eh! A-a-ah!”
High above the other calls rises now and then the shrill, nasal song of
the vender of sweetened bread, _Allah er-Razeek!_—“God is the Nourisher!”
A half-naked beggar changes his pathetic whine to a lusty curse as he
slinks out of the way of a galloping, shouting horseman. Any one who
feels in the mood kneels down anywhere he happens to be and prays aloud.
As a kind of accompaniment to the vociferous chorus there sounds the
continuous tinkling of the brass bowls which are rattled against each
other by the lemonade-sellers. And—very frequently in Damascus—there
pierces through the deafening tumult the thin, penetrating chant of
the muezzin who, from his lofty minaret or from the mosque door in the
crowded, narrow street, calls to the greedy bazaar to think on the
things that are unseen and eternal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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