The mosque itself extends along the entire southern side of the court.
I know of no other non-Gothic structure which seems so well fitted
to uplift one’s thoughts in solemn, spiritual worship of the unseen
God. Here are no confusing chapels, no gaudy pictures or distracting
statues, no gilded altar lit by smoking candles, no thin blue clouds of
slowly rising incense. All is clean, bright, commodious, and yet of an
appropriate richness and beauty. A careful inspection shows that the
architects used the ground-plan of a basilica with aisles and transepts;
but, in spite of the two rows of columns and the heavier pillars which
support the central “Dome of the Eagle,” the chief and lasting impression
of the mosque is its ample, unbroken spaciousness.
The building is larger even than the visitor first thinks: a hundred
and fifty paces will hardly take him from one end of it to the other.
Its stone floor is entirely covered by rugs, whose variegated patterns
have worn to a dull, somber tint. From the lofty ceiling a multitude of
lamps and several gigantic chandeliers are hung by long chains, so low
that they just clear the head of a tall man. Between two of the columns
stands a lavishly decorated, domed structure which is said to contain the
head of John the Baptist, after whom the mosque is named. The shrine is
about the size of the Chapel of the Sepulcher at Jerusalem, but it seems
smaller on account of the far larger building which surrounds it. In the
south wall of the mosque—toward Mecca—are four shallow prayer-niches, and
near the middle of this side stands a tall, graceful pulpit, whose minute
and elaborate inlays of silver and ivory and mother-of-pearl make it a
marvel of chaste richness. Unlike all Oriental churches and most other
mosques, there is comparatively little gold used in the decoration of
this great building. The prevailing colors are cool white and blue and
silver, and the really immense amount of mosaic and inlaid work seems
hardly more than delicate tracery upon the broad, unbroken surfaces.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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