As we went out of the old city of Homs, the clearness of the atmosphere
was like transparency made visible. The horizon was as clean-cut as that
of the ocean. Off to the west were the heights inhabited by the cruel
and fanatical Nusairiyeh; straight in front of us to the south was the
“Entering In of Hamath,” lying low and narrow between Anti-Lebanon on our
left and the snow-clad summits of highest Lebanon on our right; while to
the east the great wheat-fields of the “Land of Homs” rolled away over
the horizon to the unseen desert. Our goal, the little village of Feruzi,
shone so white and distinct that it was hard to realize that it was over
an hour’s journey away.
We were four: two Americans, the native pastor of the Protestant
congregation at Homs, and an old, old man. The pastor was a noble fellow,
who shortly afterward showed heroic mettle during a fearful cholera
epidemic which ravaged his city. The old man, however, was the more
picturesque figure.
He was clothed in baggy trousers of faded blue, with a large turban on
his head and a heavy, formless sheepskin mantle over his shoulders; his
bare feet were thrust into great yellow slippers which flopped clumsily
as he walked. We should once have been inclined to treat him with some
condescension; but fortunately we had learned the Oriental lesson of
reverence for old age, and we American college graduates soon found
there were many things that this unschooled Syrian mechanic could teach
us. What dignity and quietness marked his speech and manner! How calm
and trustful was his attitude toward the future! He was one of the
first Protestants in this district, and many were the stories he could
tell of the early days of struggle and persecution. He had never been
rich—I doubt if he earned thirty cents a day; yet he spoke as one who
had observed much and reflected much and, although many kinds of trouble
had come to him, his contentment and faith were an inspiration to us.
As we were his guests, we were of course treated with the greatest
friendliness, yet we could see that in his eyes we were mere boys, who
knew little of the problems of life. And, to tell the truth, before the
day was over we were more than half inclined to agree with him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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