After dinner a young Maronite priest came up from the convent to visit
us. Father Abdullah proved to be the private secretary of the patriarch,
who has a summer residence at Diman. It was an unanticipated experience
for us to meet, high up in this wild mountain region, a Syrian priest
who, after graduating from the Maronite College at Beirut, had spent
seven years in advanced Latin studies at Paris and had then read
archæology at the British Museum. Father Abdullah’s English, however,
was a broken reed; so most of our conversation was carried on in French,
with an occasional lapse into Arabic. He said that his long residence at
Paris had naturally brought him into closest sympathy with the French,
but that nevertheless he considered the English superior in practicality
and energy. He had recently made an independent archæological study of
the surrounding district, and entertained us by telling some of his own
theories concerning the very early history of Lebanon. Later in the
evening, as a further evidence of his friendship, he sent us a great
basket of fresh figs.
While we were enjoying this delicious gift, the fog rolled up again
from the west and filled the gorge until we looked across the billowing
surface of a milk-white sea, above which only a few of the loftiest peaks
appeared as lonely islands. Such was the marvelous purity of the air
at this altitude that even at night the sky was still a deep blue and
the full moon touched the rocks with delicate tints of orange and rose,
while, to complete the soft beauty of the scene, a double lunar rainbow
swung its cold silvery arcs above the summit of the Cedar Mountain.
Then the wind freshened, the rising fog-waves overflowed from the valleys
and the penetrating chill of our cloud-bound mountainside drove us to the
shelter of our tents.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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