Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
Though not a very direct way of dealing out justice, this
interfamily law of responsibility answers its purpose extremely well.
I had not intended to enter at all into the ways and manners of
the natives of Morocco in this book; but the case of Kaid Ben Bu
Shaib suffering for his sons’ sins—as well, no doubt, as for
his own extortions—an example of the system in common practice,
was more or less forced upon me.
The sight of all others that I witnessed in the _mahalla_ at
Tafilet was the Sultan’s procession, when he went to pray at,
and returned from, the tomb of Mulai Ali Shereef, his ancestor,
who lies buried near Abu Aam, and of whom I shall have more to say
in my chapter on the oasis of Tafilet.
I have often witnessed the great pageants of Morocco; and since
this very one, which took place at the end of November 1893, I have
seen two others—the last entry of Mulai el Hassen into Marakesh
the following month, and the first entry of Mulai Abdul Aziz,
his successor, into Fez in July 1894. But for picturesqueness
neither approached the procession that accompanied the Sultan
from the camp to the tomb of his ancestor at Tafilet, for here
there was every feature to add to the oriental appearance of the
scene. The background of palms and desert, the thousands of tents,
the gay uniforms—though the word is ill applied to costumes
of every hue and colour—of the foot-soldiers, the long white
robes of the cavalry, the gorgeous velvet saddles and still more
gorgeous banners of gold brocade and embroideries,—all formed one
of those strange scenes that one can witness now and again at the
Court of the Moorish sovereign, so much in contrast to the usual
dull colouring of the country and its inhabitants.
Nothing more beautiful could be imagined than the long procession of
cavalry and infantry, of wild Berber and Arab tribesmen. A gentle
wind unfurled the banners to the breeze, and raised the dust under
the horses’ feet just thickly enough to cast a white glamour over
the whole scene, through which sparkled and glistened the flags and
the golden globes of their poles, the bayonets and rifles of the
infantry, and the heads of the spears of the guard. Then, mounted
on his great white horse, saddled and trapped in green and gold,
with the canopy of crimson velvet and gold embroidery held over his
head, rode the Sultan, while huge black slaves on either hand waved
long scarfs to keep the flies from his sacred person. In and out of
the city of tents, for such the _mahalla_ is, wound the procession,
the line of march guarded by troops on either side.
Another example of the kindness and solicitude of the Sultan was
manifested that day, for, on account of the heat, he countermanded
personally the order that the infantry were to accompany him on
his ride of two hours or so, and sent them back from a couple of
hundred yards beyond the limits of his camp.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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