Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
These villages are usually square or oblong, surrounded by high
_tabia_ walls of great thickness, protected at intervals by towers,
sometimes the same height as the walls, and often considerably
taller. One gate alone gives entrance to the _ksar_, and this is
always closed from sunset to dawn. These gates are often double,
there being a turn half-way through, so that from without one is not
able to obtain a view of what lies within. At times, surrounding the
whole _ksar_, is a deep ditch, often formed by the digging out of
the soil for material for the walls, but nevertheless of great use
in time of war. A common practice in warfare, as already mentioned,
is to bring, by means of a canal, water to the foundations of the
walls of the _ksar_. The action of the stream upon the soft _tabia_
is quick and sure, and in an hour or two a breach is formed. These
ditches, therefore, prevent the immediate application of this plan,
and are generally drained into the surrounding fields, so that before
the dangerous element reaches the wall it is carried off elsewhere.
A guard is placed at the gate, and a stranger entering is questioned
as to his business and scrutinised. I myself went through this
process on entering Meharza at Sifa, when in disguise; but my men
were quick in answering the questions, and we hurried on, so that
I was not suspected for a moment. Few or no windows look out from
the outside walls of the _ksar_, but loopholes are common in case
of attack from without.
Within the walls a certain amount of regularity and good building is
to be found. One generally, after passing through the gate, enters
a large court, or square, from which the streets lead into the more
thickly inhabited portion of the _ksar_. These squares are usually
surrounded on three sides by houses, the fourth side consisting of
the outer wall, in which the gate is situated. The houses are solid
and very large, often several storeys in height. Windows open out
into the streets, which is seldom found in the private houses of
the large towns of Morocco. As a rule, the windows and doors are
small, wood being a valuable commodity, as it has to be carried
from a long distance, generally from the Atlas slopes of Beni Mgild
and Aït Yussi to the north of the basin of the Wad Ziz. Palm-tree
trunks are used as rafters and ceilings, though I was informed that
in some of the houses of the wealthier Shereefs handsome ceilings
in decorated plaster and painted wood are found, the artists and
workmen having been brought from Fez for the purpose of decorating
them. The use of lime is uncommon, and only the better-class
houses are whitewashed within, and very few indeed on the outside,
the ordinary population being content with a plastering of light
mud, which, when well applied, has by no means a bad effect, much
resembling our plaster walls in colour and surface. The streets of
the _ksor_ are usually narrow, and in many cases the houses are built
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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