Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
In our conversation with the young Governor, when we hinted to him
the results that would ensue if he refused to take notice of the
Sultan’s commands that Kaid Maclean should rest in peace and
security, we discovered the reason of his altogether neglecting
the terms of the firman, or _daira_ as it is called in Morocco. He,
it appears, had paid a visit to the _mahalla_, and been presented
by the Sultan with a suit of clothes, the customary gift of the
country—and the _kaftan_, or coloured garment of cloth, had been
missing. For this oversight in his Majesty’s gift he had almost
turned rebel, and although Mulai el Hassen himself only a few nights
later was to camp at this very spot, he absolutely disregarded his
written orders. The fact of the _kaftan_ is worth narrating, as it
gives an insight into the turbulent character of these wild Berber
people. Yet in carriage and manner, though by no means friendly,
they were gentlemen all over. We struck camp about 3 A.M., and the
sun rose upon us after we had crossed the bleak hills, and were
proceeding west towards Ferkla. Once more I admired the palm-groves
of Milaab and the picturesque situation of the village of Igli,
dominating the mouth of the valley where the Wad Todghrá enters
Jibel Saghru from the plain.
On issuing from the hills our road varied to that I had already
taken, and we passed to the south of the conical hills I mentioned in
describing my journey, near the settlement of Islef, a picturesque
little place of a few _ksor_, with some gardens and running water
in the vicinity. The natives all turned out to see and talk with
us, and the presence of the soldiers, and the fact that we were
ready to purchase a few of their red, black, and white _kanderas_,
or shawls—part of the costume of the women of Aït Atta—kept
them in a state of tolerable politeness, though their curiosity
was unlimited, Kaid Maclean’s mackintosh cloak receiving enormous
attentions, being stroked and pinched and examined and ejaculated
on by the whole crowd.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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