Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
Having digressed for a chapter from the account of my journey,
I take up again the narrative from where it was broken off—when
on the morning of November 5 we had reached the summit of the Tizi
n’Glawi, and were resting after our exertions.
The Glawi Pass scarcely deserves such a name, for there is in reality
no pass at all. One ascends to the very summit of the mountains to
descend as suddenly on the south side, the narrow strip of footing at
the top being only a few yards wide. It is true that the surrounding
mountains on either hand rise to a very considerable elevation above
that at which we found ourselves—8150 feet; but the road merely
crosses a connecting line of quartzite, overlying the shales,
which runs from Jibel Glawi on the west to Adrar n’Iri on the
east, the flat-topped snow-capped mountain that gives its name to
the stream up the valley of which we had been ascending. The views
in either direction were fine, but totally different; for while
to the north our eyes wandered over the valley of the Tetula, and
lower down the Ghadat, with the steep mountains densely wooded on
their lower slopes, before us to the south lay range after range of
broken limestone mountains, bare and bleak, and without a single
sign of vegetation. But one exception there was, the circular
valley of Teluet lying 2000 feet below us; but at this dry period
of the year, for as yet only the very slightest rain had fallen,
it looked as bare and dried up as did the hills that surrounded us.
The descent could be seen twisting in and out the escarpment of
the mountains, amongst boulders of rock from which here and there
unsightly wind-bent trunks of evergreen oaks appeared.
A few villages dotted the little plain below, whose flat roofs
upturned to our gaze had a strange appearance as we peered down
on them from so far above. For the most part they were perched
upon rocky eminences, raised slightly above the level of the small
valley. It is here that the great castle of the Kaid of Glawa is
situated, but from our vantage-point it was indistinguishable,
being hidden in the slight descent that leads from the valley to
the course of the Wad Marghen. This _kasba_ of the Kaid of Glawa,
Sid el Madani, was the last point at which, should I be discovered,
my return would be insisted upon, for beyond this the Moorish
Government holds little or no real jurisdiction, so it was not
unnaturally that we gave the place as wide a berth as possible. On
my return journey, when disguise was no longer necessary, I spent
a night at the _kasba_, and when the time comes shall describe
this mountain fortress, which even in Europe would be considered
a building of great size and strength.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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