Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
Descending the 2000 feet that led to the valley of Teluet, we met
at the bottom almost the first large caravan we had as yet come
across. They were bound upon the same road as ourselves, though
their destination was Dads, while I hoped to push on as far as
Tafilet. The men forming the caravan were one and all Berbers, and
natives of Dads, added to which they were friends of the old Shereef
whom I was accompanying. Therefore I had nothing to fear from them,
and the little Arabic they spoke was so mixed up with Shelha that
there was no possibility of their detecting my foreign accent. Some
twelve men there were in all, with as many mules and donkeys. The
cheerfulness of this augmentation of our little caravan was damped
by the news they gave us, for from them we learned that the road
_viâ_ Warzazat was blocked, owing to the tribes being in
[Illustration: _A Pass on the Road._]
revolt, and that they had been obliged to turn back only some six
hours from where we met them. It had been my particular desire to
proceed _viâ_ this route, as there are rumours of ruins in the
valley of the Warzazat; but I at once perceived that we must follow
the inevitable and pursue the road _viâ_ Askura, which possessed
this attraction to the explorer, that it had never before been
traversed or described by any traveller. It was good luck that
brought us in contact with the Dads’ caravan, for in these wild
lawless regions there is safety in numbers, and I noticed that
the old Shereef especially cheered up at the sight of the dozen
antiquated flint-lock guns the men bore.
We at once decided to join company and pursue the road together,
and for the five following days the Dads tribesmen and their little
mules formed part of our caravan. Good sturdy fellows they were,
always laughing and running races, in which the brisk cold often
tempted me to join them. At this they were much amused, for my
slender—not to say thin—form and limbs, as yet but slightly
tanned with the sun, led them to suppose that I could ill stand
the hardships of the road. That I was a European in disguise never
once crossed their simple trusting minds, and amongst this wild
band I obtained a reputation of very considerable sanctity, on
account of the fact that I said my prayers in orthodox style with
the old Shereef, and that I wore suspended round my neck, over my
torn and ragged _jelaba_, a string of wooden beads, the insignia
of the sect of the Derkaua, or followers of Sidi Ali el Derkaui,
who may be almost said to be the patron saint of the Sahara.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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