Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
The effect is a curious one, for often when one is approaching a
settlement on the river-banks, the fact that the watercourse and
its cultivated surrounding land is far sunk below the level of the
plain renders it invisible until one reaches the very edge of the
decline. Up to that point one’s eye ranges from the level plain
on which one is to where it commences again beyond, its barren
appearance and uniform colouring presenting the effect that both
join, and it seems impossible that a large colony with gardens
and irrigated lands can exist in the neighbourhood. It is easy to
see that the whole formation of the country is due to the streams
poured down from the greater Atlas, which, flowing south as far
as the parallel range of Jibel Saghru, are there obliged to seek a
common outlet by following the direction of the mountains as far as
Mesgita, where the united force of the rivers has formed a passage
through the range.
All the _ksor_ of Ghresat are situated upon the east bank of the
river, and at some height above it, while the west bank is occupied
by a few gardens, where fig and almond trees seem to thrive well. The
stream is clear, and even in this dry season we found a couple
of feet of water in the ford, which was perhaps some sixty yards
across. The river-bed is stony, with larger boulders of limestone
strewn here and there, no doubt carried to this position from the
mountains above.
Several of the _ksor_ are handsome buildings, one, just above the
ford, being particularly so, the decoration and turreted towers
giving it a most imposing effect. The inhabitants, like those of
Agurzga, are a subdivision of the Imerghan tribe of Berbers, who are
continually at war, not only with the surrounding tribes but also
amongst themselves. Sometimes a feud arises between neighbouring
_ksor_ within easy range of one another, when a strict watch
is kept from the roof of each, and shots exchanged whenever the
opportunity presents itself. We were pointed out two _ksor_ where
this unsatisfactory state of affairs was progressing, both in a sad
state of disrepair from constant attack, and from the fact that no
opportunity could be found to reconstruct the damaged portions on
account of the builders being fired upon by their neighbouring
enemy. The only parallel case we can well imagine would be a
blood-feud between two houses exactly opposite one another in a
street. While a bullet from the tiles would lay low the footman
who answered the door on the one side, the host returning from an
evening party would be struck in the back on the other, and so on
until possibly no male member remained in either family.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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