Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
We pushed on quickly, tired though we and our poor animals were, and
an hour or so before sunset entered the groves of palm-trees, which
commence quite suddenly, so that in a minute or two one has lost
sight of the desert and is threading one’s way amongst a forest of
trees. For an hour we passed through the oasis before arriving at the
spot where we were to camp. Often our road led us amongst gardens,
above the top of the walls of which appeared palms, pomegranate,
apple, pear, peach, and other fruit-trees, while clusters of roses
and jasmine spoke of the love of the natives for flowers. A tree
we had not as yet come across, and which I here noticed in large
quantities, was the tamarix (_senegalensis_), which attains a very
considerable size and has a handsome appearance. Large fields,
skilfully irrigated, now and then took the place of the gardens, in
which the natives rear crops of wheat, barley, and maize, the latter
especially. Through these openings one could catch glimpses of the
great _ksor_ of the place, some of which are not only of great size,
but also possess a most imposing appearance, with their decorated
upper storeys and tapering towers. Everything seemed in excellent
repair, which spoke not only for the agricultural character of the
people, but also of their wealth—for, comparatively speaking,
Askura is one of the richest, if not quite the richest, of the
oases in Morocco south of the Atlas Mountains.
We forded two more rivers, the Wad bu Jhila—“father of
madness,” so called on account of its floods and swift current
after rains in the mountains—and the large Wad Askura, from
which the oasis takes its name. Both these rivers contained,
at the time of our passing through, a plentiful supply of water,
flowing in many channels over wide stone-strewn beds. In the centre
of the easternmost—the Wad Askura—on what was at the dry period
an island, a weekly market is held, which in winter is removed to
another and more sheltered spot, for the island is often flooded. The
object of its situation is that the spot is the only one clear from
the forest, and therefore attack and fighting is less likely to
occur than would be the case amongst the palm-groves; for, ignoring
their constant wars with the Berbers of the surrounding country,
the tribes and even villages of Askura are continually fighting
amongst themselves.
A steep bank brings one to the eastern bank of the second river,
and a mile farther on, still amongst palm-trees and gardens,
we pitched our tent for the night in a square _tabia_ enclosure,
used as a caravanserai. But though tolerable immunity from plunder
was secured by the walls around us, a number of the natives crowded
into the place, and it was only owing to our continual vigilance
that we did not lose articles of our baggage. I found the elevation
of our camping-ground to be 4200 feet above the sea-level.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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