Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
Looking down from the tops of the cliffs upon the valley of Dads,
the district presents an appearance the like of which I have seen
nowhere else in the world. It is not that it is beautiful scenery,
or that its fertility calls for admiration; rather it is the fact
that in its curious position and architecture it is unique. The
valley, with the river flowing through its midst, is entirely shut
in on both sides by high cliffs of yellow soil. From amongst the
gardens crop up everywhere the _ksor_ with their battlements and
towers, each one of which would be considered a large building in
Europe. As a frame to this strange scene there is the barren desert,
bounded on the north by the rocky snow-clad peaks of the great chain
of the Atlas, and on the south by the irregular line of Jibel Saghru.
The district of Dads is divided into six portions, each of
which contains many _ksor_. These subdivisions of the tribe are
respectively, commencing from the south—
(i.) Arbaa miya. “the four hundred”;
(ii.) Iutagin;
(iii.) Aït u Allel;
(iv.) Aït Hammu;
(v.) Aït Iunir;
(vi.) Aït Tamuted.
Of these the first-named, Arbaa miya, is decidedly the largest,
strongest, and altogether most powerful. It contains some forty
_ksor_. It is at the north end of Aït Tamuted that the Wad Dads
leaves the valleys of the Atlas to enter the plain.
I spent five days at Dads, and very pleasant ones they were,
while the rest after the weary tramp refreshed men and beasts
wonderfully. During the heat of the day we would wander down to
the banks of the river, and saunter through the gardens, or sit and
talk under the shade of the fig-trees. So accustomed had I become to
playing the part of a native that my life with the Berbers caused
me no anxiety lest my identity should be discovered, and I even
became lax in my attentions at prayers, attending merely the noon
and sunset “services.” The mosque of Zauia Aït bu Haddu was a
small enough place, with a roof supported on heavy beams of rough
walnut-wood, and a minaret in bad repair. Water for the purpose of
ablutions had to be brought from the nearest canal, for the _zauia_
stands above the level of the gardens, almost immediately below
the cliffs. Being a sanctuary of Shereefs, it was not built on the
same plan of defence as the generality of the _ksor_, though its
entrances were mostly guarded with gates. No doubt the fact that
most of its inhabitants are descendants of the Prophet renders
it less liable to attack, and less likely to be embroiled in the
intertribal feuds which are of everyday occurrence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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