Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west SaharaHarris, Walter
History
Tafilet : $b the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Harris, Walter
Atlas Mountains; Morocco -- Description and travel
We wandered on for what seemed to me an interminable distance amongst
the palm-groves, passing many _ksor_, at each of which I hoped in
turn we were about to take up our quarters for the night, and each
of which we passed by without entering. I had placed myself and my
plans entirely in the hands of the _zitat_—our guarantee—from
Dads, and left everything to him. He was an excellent fellow,
and his opinion of myself seemed to increase when he found I could
trudge my forty miles or so a-day with an appearance—though by
no means a true one—of little inconvenience. He was a typical
Berber this latest addition to our party, some 6 feet in height,
with a fair white skin and dark eyes and eyebrows. His face was clean
shaven except for the small pointed beard on the end of his chin,
and a remarkably handsome face it was. But his heart was better even
than his looks, and more than once, as we tried to sleep of a night,
our teeth chattering with the frost, he would cover me with his warm
cloak, sharing it with me until I slept, when he would give up his
half so that I might be warmer—and in the morning tell a dozen
lies, saying that he had been so hot he had kicked it off, and it
was only by accident that I had found myself warm and comfortable,
and him half frozen.
I think the only qualms of conscience I felt at being in disguise
were with this good fellow, for as yet he had not the faintest idea
of my identity. So much did this trouble me that I took advantage
of our lying huddled together under his warm cloak that night to
tell him the whole story of my journey, whispered, lest we should
be overheard. He said but little, but I knew full well that I could
trust him, and in the morning I was warm, wrapped up in his _haidus_,
and he, only in his _chamira_, shivered with the frost. If anything
his attention to my comforts increased after I had confided to him
the fact of my disguise; and every now and then he would burst
out into the merriest of laughs as we trudged along, thinking
the whole affair a tremendous joke, and reiterating his approval
of my venturing where none had ever trod, and where my life if
discovered was worth probably about half-an-hour’s purchase. Nor
was his astonishment at my knowledge of Arabic—imperfect though
it is—a small one; for, himself a Berber, he too spoke it as a
foreign tongue, and if anything not so fluently as myself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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