It is not much that we deign to learn from these Orientals,--we who
glory in our civilisation. We do not copy their silence or their
abstemiousness, nor that invariable mindfulness of his own personal
dignity which always adheres to a Turk or to an Arab. We chatter as much
at Cairo as elsewhere, and eat as much and drink as much, and dress
ourselves generally in the same old, ugly costume. But we do usually
take upon ourselves to wear red caps, and we do ride on donkeys.
Nor are the visitors from the West to Cairo by any means confined to the
male sex. Ladies are to be seen in the streets, quite regardless of the
Mahommedan custom which presumes a veil to be necessary for an
appearance in public; and, to tell the truth, the Mahommedans in general
do not appear to be much shocked by their effrontery.
A quarter of the town, has in this way become inhabited by men wearing
coats and waistcoats, and by women who are without veils; but the
English tongue in Egypt finds its centre at Shepheard’s Hotel. It is
here that people congregate who are looking out for parties to visit
with them the Upper Nile, and who are generally all smiles and courtesy;
and here also are to be found they who have just returned from this
journey, and who are often in a frame of mind towards their companions
that is much less amiable. From hence, during the winter, a cortége
proceeds almost daily to the Pyramids, or to Memphis, or to the
petrified forest, or to the City of the Sun. And then, again, four or
five times a month the house is filled with young aspirants going out to
India, male and female, full of valour and bloom; or with others coming
home, no longer young, no longer aspiring, but laden with children and
grievances.
The party with whom we are at present concerned is not about to proceed
further than the Pyramids, and we shall be able to go with them and
return in one and the same day.
It consisted chiefly of an English family, Mr. and Mrs. Damer, their
daughter, and two young sons;--of these chiefly, because they were the
nucleus to which the others had attached themselves as adherents; they
had originated the journey, and in the whole management of it Mr. Damer
regarded himself as the master.
The adherents were, firstly, M. Delabordeau, a Frenchman, now resident
in Cairo, who had given out that he was in some way concerned in the
canal about to be made between the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. In
discussion on this subject he had become acquainted with Mr. Damer; and
although the latter gentleman, true to English interests, perpetually
declared that the canal would never be made, and thus irritated M.
Delabordeau not a little--nevertheless, some measure of friendship had
grown up between them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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