Teas have two values—an _Intrinsic_ or real value, and a _Commercial_ or
market value; quality, strength and flavor constituting the first, the
latter being more often based on style, appearance, supply and
fluctuations in price. So that in their selection for commercial
purposes four leading features are to be considered—Leaf, Style, Liquor
and Flavor. The drawing and drinking qualities of the tea in the cup are
paramount to the style and appearance of the leaf in the hand, as many
teas, though rough-looking and coarse in “make” or style, draw and drink
well in the infusion. There are five principal methods of testing the
merits of a tea:—
=By Style or Appearance.=—Which, though not invariably an indication of
merit, has still considerable to do with the value and quality of a tea.
Choice teas of all kinds are however, handsomely made and stylish in
appearance, that is, compactly if not artistically curled, twisted,
folded or rolled, according to its make, and all teas being small and
fine in proportion to their youth and tenderness, the ripest and most
“sappy” curling up tightest and retaining their form longest,
consequently the younger and fresher the leaves the richer, more juicy
and succulent the tea. If it be Green tea of the Imperial or Gunpowder
order the leaf is hard-rolled and “shotty,” regular in make, bright
natural green in color, very uniform and pleasing in general appearance.
But if of the Hyson or Young Hyson sorts, the leaf will be well and
evenly curled or twisted, the latter being almost “wirey” in texture and
of the same hue as the former. If Black, of the Oolong or Congou
variety, the leaf will be finely made, “silky” or “crapy” in texture and
varying in size from small to medium, artistically twisted and
attractive to the eye. Old and inferior teas, on the other hand, will be
large, rough and loosely rolled or curled, in proportion to their age,
quality and picking, and being partially or entirely devoid of “sap” or
succulence, they are correspondingly thin, coarse or flavorless in the
infused state.
=By Feeling.=—Judging a sample of tea by feeling is applicable more to
the curled, twisted or rolled sorts, such as Oolongs, Congous, Souchongs
and Hyson teas. If the leaves of a tea of these makes, so tested, be
really choice they will be found smooth, crisp and elastic in the hand,
and capable of resisting a gentle but firm pressure, yielding rather
than snapping or breaking under it. But if old and “sapless,” they will
be found rough and “chaffy” to the touch, very brittle, cracking easily
and crumbling under the same conditions, making much dust.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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