It was with much pleasure that I was able to hold out hope to Chief
Isaac of the mission and the school he desired so earnestly for his
people. It must not be supposed that all of them were in the completely
unevangelised state which has been dwelt upon, that to all of them the
teaching of those two full days was novel; some of them, like the chief
himself, had been across to the Yukon long ago and still bore some trace
of the early labours of the Church of England missionaries to whom this
region of Alaska that adjoins Canada is so much indebted. Others had
once been to the Ketchumstock, upon the occasion of a visit from our
missionary at Eagle, and had received instruction from him. But there
were many present in that tent who had never seen any missionary, never
had any teaching, to whom it was wholly new save as they might have
picked up some inkling from those that had been more fortunate.
[Illustration: THE TANANA CROSSING.]
[Illustration: GOOD GOING ON THE YUKON.]
[Sidenote: TRIBAL CONNECTIONS]
When we left this encampment Isaac sent two of his young men to guide
us, with a sled drawn by three or four small dogs, so gaily caparisoned
with _tapis_ and ribbons, tinsel, and pompons, that they might have
been circus dogs. Here again is evidence of this tribe's affinity
with the upper Yukon natives, and so with those of the Mackenzie. I
never saw the _tapis_, a broad, bright ornamented cloth that lies upon
the dog's back under his harness, on the Middle Yukon. It is
characteristic of the Peel River Indians who come across by the Rampart
House and La Pierre House.
A few hours' journey brought us to the Tanana River again, which we
crossed, and took a portage on the other side that went up a long defile
and then along a ridge and then down another long defile until at night
we reached the native village at Lake Mansfield; a picturesque spot, for
the lake is entirely surrounded by mountains except on the side which
opens to the river. Here the Alaskan range and the Tanana River have
approached so close that the water almost washes the base of the
foot-hills, and the scenery is as fine and bold as any in Alaska. And
here, at Lake Mansfield, if only there were navigable connection between
the lake and the river into which it drains, would be an admirable place
for a mission station.
A couple of hours next day took us the seven remaining miles to the
Tanana Crossing. Here, at that time, was a station of the military
telegraph connecting Valdez on the coast with Fort Egbert (Eagle) on the
Yukon, a line maintained, at enormous expense, purely for military
purposes. It passed through an almost entirely uninhabited country in
which perhaps scarcely a dozen messages would originate in a year. The
telegraph-line and Fort Egbert itself are now abandoned. Strategic
considerations constitute a vague and variable quantity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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