So I got no picture, save the picture indelibly impressed upon my
memory, of the noblest mountain scene I had ever gazed upon which made
memorable this 1st of March; perhaps one of the noblest mountain scenes
in the whole world, for one does not recall another so great uplift from
so low a base. The marshy, flat country that stretches from Minchúmina
to the mountains cannot be much more than one thousand feet above the
sea. Those awful precipices dropping thousands of feet at a leap, those
peaks rising serene and everlasting into the highest heaven, the
overwhelming size and strength and solidity of their rocky bulk, all
this sank into my heart, and there sprang up once again the passionate
desire of exploring the bowels of them, of creeping along their glaciers
and up their icy ridges, of penetrating their hidden chambers, inviolate
since the foundation of the world, and maybe scaling their ultimate
summits and looking down upon all the earth even as they look down!
Men, however, and not mountains, made the immediate demand upon one's
interest and attention, and I returned to breakfast and the duties of
the day. The Minchúmina people are a very feeble folk, some sixteen all
told at the time of our visit, greatly reduced by the epidemics of the
last decade, living remote from all others on the verge of their race's
habitat. They trade chiefly at Tanana, a hundred and thirty miles or so
away, walking an annual trip thither with their furs, and owning a
nominal allegiance to our mission at that place. It was the first time
that any clergyman had ever visited them, and the whole of the day was
spent with them, discovering what they knew and trying to teach them a
little more. The people sat around on the floor and hung upon the lips
of the interpreter. But what a barrier a difference of language is! An
interpreter is like a mountain pass, a means of access but at the cost
of time and labour. He does not remove the obstruction. The Minchúmina
people occupy a fine country that could amply support ten times the
Indian population that now inhabits it. We were, indeed, now entering a
country that has been almost depopulated by successive epidemics of
contagious diseases. The measles in 1900 slew most of them, and
diphtheria in 1906 destroyed all the children and many of the adults
that remained. The chief of this little band wore a hat proudly adorned
with ribbons and plumes, and flew a flag before his dwelling with the
initials of the North American Trading and Transportation Company on
it--a defunct Alaskan corporation. We could not learn the origin
thereof; the flag and the letters were plainly home-made. It was
probably a mere imitation of a flag he had seen years ago at Tanana,
copied without knowledge of the meaning of the letters, as the Esquimaux
often copy into the decoration of their clothing and equipment the
legends from canned foods.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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