worth a dollar apiece and judged it to be "considerable of a game." At
last I arose from my bunk and said that we were tired and had come there
to sleep, and with an ill grace the playing was shortly abandoned and
the natives went off. The arctic shores have their beach-combers as well
as the South Sea Islands.
[Sidenote: UNALAKLÍK]
The next day was Sunday, but I was anxious to spend my day of rest at
Unalaklík and most indisposed to spend it here, so we got away with a
very early start long before daylight. Six or seven miles of tundra and
lagoon travel and the trail crossed abruptly a tongue of land and struck
out over the salt-water ice for a cape fifteen miles away. The going was
splendid. It was not glare ice, but ice upon which snow had melted and
frozen again. It was so smooth that one dog could have drawn the sled,
yet not so smooth as to deny good footing. We kept well out to sea,
passing close to the mountainous mass of Besborough Island, plainly
riven by some ancient convulsion from the sheer bluffs of the mainland.
Our only trouble was in keeping the dogs well enough out, for, not being
water-spaniels or other marine species, they had a hankering after the
land and a continual tendency to edge in to shore.
So from headland to headland we made rapid, easy traverse, thoroughly
enjoying the ride, munching chocolate and raisins, speculating about the
seasons when it had been possible to cross direct from Nome to Saint
Michael on the ice, and exchanging stories we had heard of the disasters
and hairbreadth escapes attending such overbold venture. Only this
winter three men and a dog team were blown out into Bering Sea by a
sudden storm, and lay for four days in their sleeping-bags drifting up
and down on an ice cake, until at last they were blown back to the shore
ice and made their escape. And there is a fine story of a white man
rescued in half-frozen state by his Esquimau wife, and carried for miles
on her back to safety.
At last we turned a point and drew in to the shore, and, not seeing the
little town till we were almost upon it, arrived at Unalaklík early in
the afternoon. We had made the two hundred and forty miles, as it is
called, from Nome, in six days. In the last twelve days of travel we had
covered five hundred miles, an average of nearly forty-two miles per
day, far and away the best travelling of the winter. The preceding five
hundred miles had taken twenty-two days.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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