The great difference between Egypt and more civilized countries is the lack of inns. Alexandria and Cairo abound with hotels, and there are two or three at Luxor. Regular inns are to be found at most of the main towns in the Delta, and at Assuan, Assiut, Medinet el Fayum, and other large places, though mostly of a rough kind. Below these there are the Greek wine-shops in most towns, where some sort of shelter can be had. The country station-masters are often very obliging, and will allow a traveller to sleep in the waiting-room; and--in the Delta at least--the village shekhs are very hospitable, and generally have a good guest-room, sometimes with European furniture. Some good pocket-knives, silver spoons, and such articles, should be taken for presents, if this accommodation is needed. Also, if going to places where rock tombs abound, excellent quarters can be had in them; no dwelling is so warm at night and so cool in the day. But for any extended journey it is best to take a small tent, if not travelling by boat. Convenient little tents, seven feet square, with two poles, weighing altogether only about 30 lbs., can be had in Cairo for about twenty-five shillings: such an one can be pitched or packed in a few minutes, and goes on a donkey with all the other baggage. Some servant is needful to look after the things when one is absent; a grown-up donkey-boy will be useful, if the traveller does not speak Arabic easily, as he will have a smattering of English; but he will be perhaps a doubtful character, and will want about 3 francs a day. Far the best is to get an unsophisticated fellah from some village; he will be more trusty, and will be glad of 1 or 1½ francs a day without food. If there was no other means convenient for finding a man, I should go to some country station, and ask the station-master or postmaster to recommend some fellah whom they knew; there would thus be a hold upon him; and an advance of wages could be left with his guarantor, to satisfy him of one’s good faith in the bargain. For going about away from the railway or Nile steamers, a donkey must be hired for the baggage; there is no difficulty in getting one anywhere, and with the boy or man 1½ to 2½ francs a day is plenty in the country, though 3 or 4 francs is the Cairo rate. If by any chance one is wanted for riding, remember that though there are native saddles, there are no stirrups in the villages.