Ten Years in Washington: or, Inside Life and Scenes in Our National Capital as a Woman Sees Them ... to Which Is Added a Full Account of the Life and Death of President James A. GarfieldClemmer, Mary
History
Ten Years in Washington: or, Inside Life and Scenes in Our National Capital as a Woman Sees Them ... to Which Is Added a Full Account of the Life and Death of President James A. Garfield
Clemmer, Mary
Washington (D.C.) -- Description and travel; Washington (D.C.) -- History
Where the “Slough of Despond” spread its waxen mud across the acres of
the West End, where pedestrians were “slumped,” and horses “stalled,”
and discomfort and disgust prevailed, we now see broad carriage drives,
level as floors, over which grand equipages and pony phaetons glide with
a smoothness that is a luxury, and an ease of motion which is rest.
Where ravines and holes made the highway dangerous, now the concrete and
Nicholson pavements stretch over miles on miles of inviting road. Where
streets and avenues crossed and re-crossed their long vistas of
shadeless dust, now plat on plat of restful grass “park” the city from
end to end. Double rows of young trees line these parks far as the sight
can reach. In these June days they fill the air with tender bloom.
Gazing far on through their green arcades the sight rests at last where
poor Major L’Enfant dreamed and planned that it one day would,—on the
restful river, with its white flecks of sails, upon distant meadows and
the Virginia hills. Old Washington was full of small Saharas. Where the
great avenues intersected acres of white sand were caught up and carried
through the air by counter winds. It blistered at white heat beneath
your feet, it flickered like a fiery veil before your eyes, it
penetrated your lungs and begrimed your clothes. Now where streets and
avenues cross, emerald “circles” with central fountains, pervading the
air with cooling spray, with belts of flowers and troops of children,
and restful seats for the old or the weary take the place of the old
Saharas. In every direction tiny parks are blooming with verdurous life.
Concrete walks have taken the place of their old gravel-stone paths.
Seats—thanks to General Babcock—everywhere invite to sit down and rest
beneath trees which every summer cast a deeper and more protecting
shadow. The green pools which used to distill malaria beneath your
windows are now all sucked into the great sewers, planted at last in the
foundations of the city. The entire city has been drained. Every street
has been newly graded. The Tiber, inglorious stream, arched and covered
forever from sight, creeps in darkness to its final gulf in the river.
The canal, drained and filled up, no longer breeds pestilence.
Pennsylvania avenue has outlived its mud and its poplars, to be all and
more than Jefferson dreamed it would be,—the most magnificent street on
the continent. Its lining palaces are not yet built, but more than one
superb building like that of the Daily National Republican soars high
above the lowly shops of the past, a forerunner of the architectural
splendor of the buildings of the future. Cars running every five minutes
have taken the place of the solitary stage, plodding its slow way
between Georgetown and the Capital. Capitol Hill, which had been
retrograding for more than forty years, has taken on the look of a
suddenly growing city. Its dusty ways and empty spaces are beginning to
fill with handsome blocks of metropolitan houses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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