Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
It is curious to observe how many ancient sites the Crusaders grouped
round the Pilgrim’s Castle. The religious devotee was shown, as soon as
he landed, no less than three famous places--ancient Tyre, Capernaum,
Meon (the home of Nabal),--and probably Sarepta also; of these the true
sites were separated by distances of many days’ journey, in parts not
held by the Christians, and one is tempted to suppose that design,
rather than ignorance, was the true cause why they were so grouped.
Caipha (or Haifa) just north was shown as a place where Simon Peter used
to fish. ’Athlît itself was called ancient Tyre, perhaps because near a
place named Tîreh, and Sarepta was possibly shown at Surafend close by.
Meon was here placed because a confusion existed, in the Crusading mind,
between Carmel, the city of the south of Judah whence Abigail came, and
Mount Carmel, the scene of Elijah’s sacrifice. But, stranger still,
Capernaum was shown in the same district, for reasons not easy to
penetrate. The place is mentioned more than once, and Benjamin of Tudela
speaks of its distance from Haifa, by means of which we are able to
identify it with a village near ’Athlît, now called Kefr Lâm. Capernaum
was a fortress, and remains of its towers and walls still exist; but
there is nothing to show whether it was supposed to be the real town of
our Lord, or merely a place of similar name.
These places, and many other ruins of interest, lie in the narrow plain
extending twenty miles south of the Carmel promontory. This plain
suddenly enlarges to more than double its width, or to about nine miles,
south of the Nahr ez Zerka, or Crocodile River; and a cliff above the
beautiful springs, whence this stream is fed near Mâmâs, forms the end
of the Carmel block. The Zerka is a deep perennial stream, fringed with
rushes and full of Syrian papyrus, forming a blue pool in one place
where it is dammed across to collect its waters, and thence rushing
down, even in autumn, in a strong stream to the sea; its mouth is
guarded by a Crusading fort, and near it are the remains of a Crusading
bridge. North and south of the stream there are large marshes, full of
tamarisk and of tall canes. The clear springs, under the hills, are
perennial, and by them are remains of a Roman theatre at Mâmâs, which
has been converted later into a fortress. This stream has been known
from the time of Strabo and Pliny as the Crocodile River, and in it the
crocodile still exists, being, according to general native evidence,
unknown in any other stream in Palestine.
On the sides of Carmel we discovered also a ruin called Semmaka, or the
“Sumach tree,” where are remains of what seems to me to have been
undoubtedly a synagogue. The dimensions and ornamentation of the lintel
stones and pillars reproduce exactly those of the Galilean synagogues;
and the place is a very likely one, as the town of Haifa has been a
favourite residence of the Jews, from the time of Christ to the present
day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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