Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
On the 8th of April we moved south to Zeita, on the edge of the hills.
From this camp no discoveries of much importance were made; but we
visited two Crusading towers which formed fine stations in the
plain--one at Kâkôn, a place mentioned, in 1160, by Benjamin of Tudela,
as being the ancient Keilah; the second at Kŭlŭnsaweh (which means
“mitred”), where is a beautiful hall, probably part of the Castle of
Plans, built by the Templars in 1191.
On one of our expeditions along the coast from Mukhâlid, we perceived,
to our astonishment, unknown rocks or islands out at sea. Soon, however,
I saw that our islands were moving, and came to the conclusion that
they were drifting wrecks or rafts, wrecked vessels being very common
all along this harbourless coast; but presently the blocks broke up and
soared into the air; they were two large flocks of pelicans, rocking on
the summer sea.
The country near the coast was here all of blown sand, with scattered
bushes, and, farther inland, are dunes of semi-consolidated red
sandstone. Near Jaffa there are low oak-bushes, which spring from the
roots of a forest, now entirely felled; and, east of our camp, an open
woodland exists, with a ruin called Umm es Sûr, “mother of the wall.” In
this name we see probably remains of Assur, the name of a forest near
the coast, through which the English and the Templars fought their way
before arriving at Arsûf, during the famous march of Richard Lion-Heart.
The Emîr of the Howârith Arabs was camped near us, and pressed us to
visit his tent, which was pitched in the middle of the plain among
coarse grass and thistles--a low black camel’s-hair cloth stretched over
rude poles, and the sides closed in with reed matting. The women’s
apartment was on the north, shut off with matting; on the south and west
the tent was open. Carpets were spread, and gay-coloured pillows strewn
on the ground. The Emîr’s black slave, Sheikh Saleh, and a little black
demon, his head all shaven except the _shûsheh_, or top-knot, took our
horses. The Emîr was not content with our sipping coffee; he insisted on
our eating salt with him. A sound of grinding arose behind the matting,
and two good-looking women in the dark blue, sweeping, long-sleeved
robes peculiar to Bedawin, went off to fetch water, with large jars
balanced on their heads. The elders of the tribe sat, half asleep,
around us, one being remarkable for a fine pair of silver-mounted
pistols.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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