Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
The mosque has three minarets--that of the Bride to the north, a square,
blue tower, from the upper gallery of which four stout Muedhens were
chanting, in beautiful time and shrill falsetto notes, the call to
prayer, a cry which can be heard like a bell over the entire city. The
second minaret is that of “Our Lord Jesus”--a slender grey needle, upon
the summit of which the Moslems believe that Christ will descend in the
last day. We ascended the third minaret, in the south-west corner, by a
winding stair of one hundred and ninety steps, leading to a wooden
gallery, whilst forty more lead up to a narrow ledge beneath the little
dome.
From this point a really characteristic view presented itself. On every
side was a flat expanse of mud roofs, only broken here and there by a
little whitewashed dome, and set in a dense rich belt of deep green,
extending for a mile from the houses on every side. Beyond the gardens
were ranges of hills, barren and desolate, brown and white in colour,
and terminated by the steep Hermon ridge.
The charm of the view, however, was due to the interiors. Each house was
built round an open court, with a cool central fountain, and with green
trees, some of great size, overtopping the roof. The courts were paved
with marble, and galleries of carved woodwork ran around them; the walls
were banded in courses of black and white marble, or coloured blue and
red. Above the roofs rose the countless minarets, in endless variety;
some blue or green, square and squat; others of beautiful grey stone,
with richly ornamented stone pendants, wood lattices, and Arab or Cufic
inscriptions; some whitewashed and crowned with a sort of snuffer-shaped
roof, others domed. Bristling against the green bed in which the mud
city lies, they gave a rich variety of effect, which is lost in the
narrow lanes or roofed bazaars.
Damascus is a centre of the faith, second only to Mecca. The Greek
cathedral is hustled into a corner, and guarded by a great white
minaret. A second great mosque is built on the west, outside the town,
its architect having lost his head for so placing it, to be given back
to him--so says the grim Arabic inscription--when the sanctuary stands
in the middle of Damascus. On the west of the town is a brown fortress,
outwardly formidable, inwardly a ruin--fit emblem of Turkish rule.
From the silversmiths’ bazaar we visited the exterior of the southern
wall of the mosque, jumping over a narrow street, and running along the
house-roofs. Here we found a fine Byzantine doorway, with a well-carved
cornice, and along its frieze the famous Greek inscription: “Thy
kingdom, O Christ, is an everlasting kingdom, and Thy dominion endureth
throughout all generations.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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