Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Crossing the stream, just above the waterfall, by a single arch, we
continued along the left bank. The Barada has worn a deep bed, and on
either side the remains of petrified leaves and stems are visible in the
rude conglomerate of the banks. The stream pours over boulders and
broken blocks, and is half-covered with luxuriant bushes. Gradually
ascending, the road leads into the long plain of Zebdâny--a sort of
repetition of the Stûra plain on a smaller scale, flanked on the west by
the ragged and castellated ridges of the Anti-Lebanon, and on the east
by a range of equal height. The plateau is bare and treeless, except
towards the north, where are groves of poplar. Through the centre runs
the river, its course marked by green bushes. In the middle of the plain
it springs up suddenly from a great blue pool, or small lake, of
unfathomable depth, resembling the springs of Antipatris mentioned in
the last chapter. The stream is here actually broader than at the gorge,
and emerges in full volume from the earth. The basin is of hard yellow
rock. At first the stream is sluggish, the banks clayey and grassy,
fringed with tall canes; and the water of the pool is full of fish and
frequented by water-fowl; lower down, however, the fall is very rapid,
and, from the gorge to Damascus, the current is extremely quick.
The western mountains were already dark in the blue afternoon shadow, as
we began to climb the white slopes to the east of the plain. Here, at a
height 5000 feet above the sea, our summer camp was to be fixed, at the
village of Bludân, below the Consul’s house.
On the 11th of August the Consul rode down to Damascus, accompanied by
Mr. Wright and myself. On this occasion I was able to see something of
Damascus by night, guided by the missionary; and in the afternoon we
penetrated into one of the slave-markets, ascending a rickety staircase
to a miserable wooden verandah, on to which the little rooms opened. In
one chamber was a negress, gaily dressed, seated on a straw mat, and
dandling a small black baby. She seemed in very good spirits; but her
next-door neighbour was nursing a sick child, and looked unhappy enough.
In the third room were three negresses, and a white girl, pale and thin,
who, instead of greeting us in the jovial manner of the black women,
drew her veil round her and fled into an inner chamber. Theoretically,
the purchase of fresh slaves is forbidden in the Turkish dominions; but
there are two of these slave establishments in Damascus--one just behind
or in a mosque--and newly-imported slaves from Africa arrive here every
year.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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