Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Our first camp in the desert was fixed beside the Monastery of St. Saba,
a famous settlement of Greek monks. We here entered into an entirely
distinct region. The character of the rock was different from the
stratified limestone of the mountains above; it is a white soft chalk,
which is worn, by the winter rain, into long knife-edged ridges,
separated by narrow ravines with stony beds. The sea breeze never visits
this ghastly desert, which is fitly called in Scripture Jeshimon or
“solitude.” Thus, though in spring the naked slopes are thinly covered
with grass and flowers, it presents, throughout nearly the whole year, a
long succession of glaring ridges, with fantastic knolls and peaks, and
sharp ragged spurs, absolutely treeless and waterless. The fauna also
changes; the tawny desert-partridge takes the place of the red-legged
Greek species, common in other districts. The ibex succeeds the
gazelle, and many birds unknown in other parts of Palestine are here
abundant. The people also are a distinct race; their language is as
different from that of the peasantry as is broad Scotch from Devonshire
dialect; their habits, dress, dwellings and traditions are those of an
entirely different people.
Everything in this desert is of one colour--a tawny yellow. The rocks,
the partridges, the camels, the foxes, the ibex, are all of this shade,
and only the dark Bedawîn and their black tents are distinguishable in
the general glare.
The convent of Mar Saba stands on the south side of the huge fissure or
gorge called the Valley of Fire, by which the water from Jerusalem comes
down to the Dead Sea. East of it is a plateau between mountains on the
west side and precipices rising eight hundred feet from the shores of
the lake on the east. This plateau is also of waterworn marl with
innumerable ridges, knolls, peaks, ravines, and iron crags around it.
It was from a “Tubg” or terrace, east of the plateau, that we first
looked down on that marvellous sea (1300 feet lower than the
Mediterranean), which swallows up all Jordan and all the snows of
Hermon, and yet has no outlet, but yearly gives off the surplus supply
in the heavy steam of evaporating water, which in summer hides it in a
hot haze.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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