Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
The history of the mosque differs from that of the Dome of the Rock.
Justinian, in the sixth century, erected a basilica in honour of the
Virgin, partly supported by vaults beneath. The remains of such a
basilica are distinguishable in the Aksa, and the vault beneath the
mosque has the peculiarity of Byzantine vaulting--the narrow keystone,
which is not found in the round arches of the Kubbet es Sakhrah, or Dome
of the Rock.
In 637 A.D. the Church of St Mary was visited by Omar, and the “station”
where he prayed is still shown in the Aksa. In 688 A.D. Abd el Melek
covered the doors with gold and silver plates. Additions were made in
the eighth century, and the width of the building was increased. The
cupola bears the date 728 A.D. The Crusaders called the place Solomon’s
Palace, Solomon’s Porch, or Solomon’s Temple. The Templars remodelled
it, adding an apse on the east and a long hall on the west. Again it
fell into Moslem hands, and further alterations were made; thus at the
present day it presents a confusion of style and plan requiring the eye
of a practised architect to distinguish the various additions.
The general effect is poor, for the interior is whitewashed and coarsely
painted; only at the south end do any remains of the old glass mosaics
still exist, and here are found close together the beautiful pulpit of
parquetted wood-work from Damascus, and the new glass chandelier from
Constantinople, the twisted columns of the Templars’ dining-hall, and
the heavy basket-work capitals of the Byzantine basilica, while, in the
vault beneath, is the huge monolith, which three men can scarcely girth,
supporting the porch of the Temple-gate--a mixture of styles which
cannot perhaps be found in any other building in the world.
Many chapters might be written on the High Sanctuary and its buildings,
but space is wanting to describe the gates, the underground passages,
the chambers and cisterns, which I again and again explored, and which
had, already, been minutely examined and described by Major Wilson and
Captain Warren. We must hasten therefore to another building, surpassing
in interest even the Temple enclosure itself, namely, the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre.
It is a grim and wicked old building that we now approach. Perhaps no
other edifice has been directly the cause of more human misery, or
defiled with more blood. There are those who would willingly look upon
it as the real place of the Saviour’s Tomb, but I confess that, for
myself, having twice witnessed the annual orgy which disgraces its
walls, the annual imposture which is countenanced by its priests, and
the fierce emotions of sectarian hate and blind fanaticism which are
called forth by the supposed miracle, and remembering the tale of blood
connected with the history of the Church, I should be loth to think that
the Sacred Tomb had been a witness for so many years of so much human
ignorance, folly, and crime.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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