Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Reaching Jericho we were again disappointed. The long groves which
appear so charming at a distance are entirely composed of thorny shrubs.
The Dôm or Zizyphus grows into a tree, with small green leaves and
formidable prickles; the Nebk, another species, forms long hedges of
briar, of which it is said the cruel Crown of Thorns was woven, for
which reason it is called Spina Christi. The Zakkûm or balsam-tree
(Balanites) is equally thorny, and beneath these grow poisonous
nightshades, and other noxious plants. The distant beauty of the groves
is only a mockery, and the environs of Jericho, when reached, are as
stony and unlovely as any other part of the country.
Yet, in some respects, the place is still charming. Here, late in
autumn, the sound of running water, and the song of birds greeted our
ears. Among the high mounds, or Tellûl, bare and dusty, a fresh
beautiful stream was flowing from ’Ain es Sultân, the site of the first
Jericho. The great spring wells up in a stony pool, under a high
hillock, and opposite to this Tell is a jungle crowned by a very large
castor-oil tree and other thick foliage. In this grateful shade the
birds have found a retreat. The great grey shrikes (Abu Zereik) sit on
the top branches, and the queer “hopping thrushes,” with their tails
stuck up like rapiers, bound about beneath. The bulbul also sings in the
groves--a grey bird with a black head and a curious yellow patch at the
root of the tail. Still more beautiful are the great Smyrna kingfishers
(Abu Nukr), in their blue coats and chocolate-coloured waistcoats,
white-throated, with bills like red sealing-wax; and the grey African
species (Abu Kubeia), which also flutters above the stream. Last, but
not least, come the lovely sun-birds (Suweid), peculiar to the Jordan
Valley, darting about like little black wrens, but resplendent, when
seen close, with all the colours of the prism.
The days were short, for night comes on in the valley almost an hour
earlier than on the hills; but on awaking next morning early, the view
from the tents on every side was very fine. To the south we looked out
over the long thorn-groves, towards the open plain stretching for eight
miles to the Dead Sea, which appeared as a gleaming thread, shut in by
long dim ridges of mountain, while the square tower of the modern Erîha
or Jericho appeared in mid distance. In the early morning I looked out,
and saw the long steel-blue ranges capped with rolling wreaths of cloud,
behind which the ruddy streak of dawn ran out, the very light which,
morning after morning, used to be watched by the priests in the Temple,
gradually spreading towards the Hebron mountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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