Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
The neighbourhood of Jericho has been a favourite retreat for hermits
since the fourth century. In the twelfth it was full of monasteries, and
the ruins of no less than seven of these buildings remain, without
counting the chapels on Kŭrŭntŭl, or the Templars’ church in
the fortress on the summit of the same mountain. The interior walls of
these ruins were covered with frescoes, in some cases well preserved,
and all the designs have painted inscriptions. The character used fixes
the frescoes as not earlier than the twelfth century, and the masonry
and pointed arches lead to the same conclusion regarding the date of
these buildings.
The monastery in Wâdy Kelt was dedicated to the anchorite St. John of
Choseboth; the names of Athanasius, Gerasmius of Calamon, and St.
Joachim--traditionally held to have here lived in seclusion--are written
above the figures of three saints on its walls. A barbarous inscription
in Greek and Arabic states the monastery to have been restored, by a
certain Abraham and his brothers, of the Christian village of Jufna.
The Kŭrŭntŭl chapels, which we visited in 1873, are perched
half-way up the crag, and full of frescoes with the names of Gregory,
Basil, Chrysostom, Athanasius, and other fathers of the Church. In the
great monastery of St. John of Beth Hogla, half-way between Jericho and
the Dead Sea, we found the names, Andrew of Crete, John Eleemon
(Patriarch of Jerusalem, in 630 A.D.), Sophronius of Jerusalem, and
Sylvester, Pope of Rome (probably the famous Sylvester II., 998 A.D.).
The remaining monastic sites include St. John on Jordan, now called
“Jews’ Castle,” and Tell Mogheifir, or Tell el Kursi (“mound of the
throne”), in which name we perhaps find a trace of that of the old
monastery of St. Chrysostom, rebuilt in the twelfth century.
Such was the work which occupied us in the end of November, 1873. The
Arabs round us were willing and intelligent; they made good guides, and
shot for us, not only birds, but also a fine “bedn,” or ibex. The Sheikh
Jemîl, an old friend of Dr. Tristram’s, accompanied me day after day,
and often inquired after the Doctor, whom he called “the father of the
beard.” He rode an elegant little dromedary, which was extremely tame.
The great speed which could be got out of the animal was surprising, but
the rider seemed regularly shaken to pieces by the pace, when keeping up
with my horse at a canter. He was a good shot, and one of the best
fellows I ever met among the Bedawîn, though avaricious, as are all
Arabs who come much in contact with Europeans.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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