Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
On Wednesday the 25th, we at length got a fine morning, and spite of the
very boggy nature of the ground, we set out for Wâdy Mâleh, the only
place at a suitable distance where water was reported. It was not a
change for the better by any means. The Fâr’ah Valley is a most
delightful place in early spring, when it does not rain, but Wâdy Mâleh
was quite the worst camp we ever went into. Down the Fâr’ah a perennial
stream flows from near Tullûza, in which stream we may perhaps recognise
the “much water” between Salem and Ænon. Part of the course is through a
narrow gorge, between low precipitous cliffs of dark limestone, with
iron-coloured bands of flint and many natural caverns. Lower down it
broadens into an open vale a mile across, the whole of which was now
knee-deep in beautiful flowers. The canes in the stream had been swept
down, and piled in heaps, covered with mud, in consequence of the late
floods. The oleander bushes grow all along the bed of the river in
great luxuriance, and they were now in full flower.
Leaving this charming valley hidden among its rolling hills, we ascended
northwards on to the Bukei’a, or plateau, on which the ruin ’Ainûn
(Ænon) stands. Here the flowers were also abundant; the pheasant’s-eye
was as large almost as an anemone; two beautiful species of bugloss
formed patches of sky-blue, and the pink cistus (comparatively rare in
Palestine) grew between the rocks; the veronicas, blue and red, with
here and there a bunch of the dark iris (the “lily of the field”), were
interspersed with large maroon-coloured velvety arums. The plain is good
corn-land, but seems to have a bad natural drainage; and our mules
floundered in deep bogs, sometimes up to the girths.
Still farther north, we began to descend a long valley, and came on a
different kind of country. A basaltic outbreak appeared, and cliffs
tilted in every direction. The valley-bed was strewn with fragments of
hard basalt. Passing over a bare ridge, where the beautiful white Retem
broom (Elijah’s juniper) abounded, we descended into a most desolate
valley, where, between green rolling hills like those of the Judean
desert, a muddy stream was flowing. We had ridden fifteen miles, and it
now began to rain again. We found, to our dismay, that this was where we
had to camp, as no other supply of water existed in a position central
to the new work.
The valley comes down from a narrow gorge, dominated by a Crusading
castle, and beneath this is a great outbreak of basalt. We rode up the
gorge, hoping to find a better place; but the pass was too rugged to
expect to get camels up it in the then state of the road, so we resigned
ourselves to a camp in the lower ground by the stream.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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