Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
East of camp, Wâdy Mâleh ran out into the south part of the Beisân
plain--a broad open valley, gay with flowers, dotted with Tells all
hidden by dark mallows, and frequented by the solemn white storks,
called “fathers of good luck,” or “little pilgrims,” by the Arabs. On
the north-west the heights of Gilboa closed the view, with Tabor and
Neby Duhy peeping over them. A black mound represented the ruins of
Beisân, and the high plateau rose behind, crowned by the Crusading
castle of Belvoir overlooking Jordan. A silver thread seen through the
gap below was the Sea of Galilee; the hills of Safed were pale and blue
beyond; and farther yet was Hermon, in the full glory of his fresh
winter robe of snow, his rounded bulk dwarfing the lower ranges and
closing the scene.
From the banks of the Ghôr we looked down also on Jordan, a turbid
coffee-coloured stream, breaking in one place over stones down a small
rapid, and varying from some forty to seventy yards in width, being now
very full. Little islands covered with tamarisks occurred at intervals,
and the river wound like a snake, looking wild and desolate, and
flowing, as Josephus says, “through a desert.” The Zor is here not
continuous, and in places there are cliffs a hundred feet high
immediately over the stream. The low ground was covered with barley,
already very high.
The only places of interest in this part of the Beisân plain were ’Ain
Helweh, a spring with ruins, at the distance from Beisân at which Jerome
places Abel Meholah; and Sâkût, which has been thought by some to be
Succoth. The name is, however, radically different, and Succoth has been
recovered under its later name Tarala at Tell Dar’ala, north-east of the
Dâmieh ford; but Sâkût is probably a Crusading site, for Marino Sanuto
seems to mark it on his map as Succoth, though Jerome places this
Biblical site east of Jordan.
On the 4th of April, after having endured our camp for ten days, we were
able once more to march north to Beisân (the Biblical Bethshean), one of
the best-watered places in Palestine, and at that time literally
streaming with rivulets from some fifty springs. Here, then, we rested,
for Easter Sunday, surrounded by interesting ruins, and near a fine pool
in the Jalûd river in which we could swim. We had a boar’s head,
pigeons, quail, and fish from Jordan for dinner, and enjoyed the change
from the succession of patriarchal goats which we had devoured in Wâdy
Mâleh.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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