Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Following a long valley, we arrived at a broad undulating plain, grey
and dry, like the muddy basin of a former sea. The hills end very
suddenly, and the boundary is thus sharply defined between the lands of
the settled population and the district of the Bedawîn, who, though
nomadic, cultivate a little tobacco and barley round Beersheba.
The scenery was tame and featureless, with a single dark Tell in front,
and white marl peaks capped with flint to the west. The heat and glare
were oppressive, and we were glad at noon to rest under a white chalk
cliff, and were able to realise the force of the poetic language of
Isaiah, “The shadow of a great rock in a weary land” (Isaiah xxxii. 2).
We ascended the Tell or mound of Seb’a, which is two and a half miles
east of the Wells of Beersheba, and thence we had a fine view of the
great boundary valley which limited our work on the south, joining the
long ravine which comes down from Hebron, and running west in a broad,
flat, gravelly bed, between high walls of brown earth. The pebbles were
white and dry, yet water-worn, for, as we found in the following spring,
a river will occasionally flow for hours along the Wâdy bed. East of us
there were remarkable white chalk hills called El Ghurrah, and on the
west a low ridge shut out the maritime plain. To the north were the
hills of Judah, dotted with lotus-trees, and to the south stretched the
endless Desert of Wanderings.
No mules appeared, and we therefore rode down towards the wells, passing
by innumerable burrows of the jerboa, and by numerous herds of camels,
with a distant view of black “houses of hair.” At length we spied a
tent, and our servants talking with mounted Arabs near the principal
well. At the same moment I saw a pigeon by one of the wells, and fired,
killing it on the spot. I noticed that the Arabs rode away immediately
after, and I found that they had been insolent, and had ordered the
servants to take down the tent, but, seeing a well-armed party
approaching, and conceiving a great respect for a gun that could kill at
such a distance, with characteristic Bedawîn caution, they made off
before we came up.
The desert of Beersheba is a beautiful pasture-land in spring, when the
grass and flowers cover the grey mud, as in the Jordan Valley; but in
November it is very desolate; not a tree exists near the wells, and only
the foundations of a flourishing fourth-century town remain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account