Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Tell el Milh is a third site of character similar to the last; it is the
Malatha of the fourth century, and possibly the “City of Salt” (as the
modern name signifies) noticed in the Bible (Josh. xv. 62). There is
here a great hillock with Arab graves on the top, ruins of an extensive
town, and on the north two wells, just like those at Beersheba. Crowds
of horses, goats, sheep, and camels surrounded them, and the song of the
water-drawers was loud and wild.
We sat down under the steep bank of the valley, north of the wells, and
very soon a crowd of naked savages collected above us. They demanded
“bucksheesh,” and made rude remarks as to our being Christians. “Look at
the big watch,” said one, observing our aneroid; “Look at the guns and
pistols,” said another. Some of the chiefs (who wore clothes) came down
to talk to our Sheikh, and, putting their foreheads against his, made a
sound representing the kiss of peace. The Sheikh, though not a Bedawî,
seemed not at all afraid of the crowd, and abused the wild Arabs
roundly, telling them to be off. As for us, we turned our backs on them
and smoked in peace.
I ordered all the provisions we had left to be served out to the party,
for the natives had eaten no breakfast. Just as darkness came on we
heard the song of the messenger from our main camp, and he came in dead
tired, after trotting for eleven hours on a rough mule: with him came
one of our soldiers on his mare, followed by its colt, which was also
much fatigued.
We made great preparations in the shape of traps for thieves, but none
came. That evening, the 11th of November, 1874, nearly proved the close
of my existence, for I was seen, in the dusk, at some little distance,
and my servant fired, mistaking me for a Bedawî robber, the ball passing
very near my head. During the night we slept but little, being in
constant fear of losing the horses, or of a night attack from the
Arabs.
By seven next morning we had set off for the hills, and passed by the
ruined towns of Ghurrah, S’awi (perhaps the ancient Jeshua), and Haura,
which are noticeable for the walls of flint-conglomerate, possibly very
ancient, surrounding their sites; in the afternoon we reached
Dhâherîyeh, and found all well except Sergeant Black, who was suffering
much from dysentery. Sheikh Hamzeh, the well-known guide from Hebron,
and Abu Dahûk, chief of the Jâhalîn Arabs, were in camp. I had arranged
with them to start for Beersheba on the 10th, and had gone without them
as they did not come on that day. This lesson in punctuality was very
useful when I again required their services.
On the 19th of December, Lieut. Kitchener joined the Survey party. The
work was then interrupted by violent gales, and subsequently by illness
in the party which wintered in Jerusalem, whence Sergeant Black was
invalided home early in January.
CHAPTER XVI.
THE LAND OF BENJAMIN.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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