Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
On the 25th of February I once more took the field, with a light and
compact expedition, my intention being to push as rapidly as possible
through the desert west of the Dead Sea, as far south as the line of
Beersheba. Lieutenant Kitchener was scarcely convalescent from a very
severe attack of Jericho fever, and our headman, Habib, was also unfit
for hard work. So, as I expected to meet with very rough weather, and to
have to undergo extraordinary fatigue, it seemed prudent to leave the
two invalids in comfortable quarters, until the desert work was done,
and the easier task of surveying the Philistine Plain could be
undertaken.
I determined to follow in this case the same policy which had been
successful in the Jordan Valley, and to go down among the Arabs without
any previous formalities. Most travellers who have passed through this
desert--the Jeshimon or “Solitude” of the Bible--have summoned the Arab
chiefs to Mâr Sâba or Hebron, and there entered into stipulations with
them, which have not, as a rule, been carried out; but we had a strong
party, we knew the language and the ways of the Bedawîn, and it was
therefore safe for us to proceed in a manner which would be impossible
for Europeans strange to the country.
We bought in Jerusalem three gaily-coloured head-shawls and one pair of
red leather boots as presents. Thus prepared, we marched straight to the
nearest Arab camp and pitched close by, without asking leave; and so we
became, as it were, the guests of the Sheikh, and were received
hospitably. The result of this policy--which was considered risky in
Jerusalem--was, that we spent only five pounds in presents and payments
to guides, whereas, in just the same length of time, a former party had
given thirty pounds. The saving effected in the Jordan Valley was at the
same rate; and including the visit to Beersheba, and the other occasions
when we went into the Bedawîn districts, we saved, I believe, about £100
for the Palestine Exploration Fund by this method of treating the Arabs.
A peculiarity of the Survey of Palestine which should be fully
recognised, is the very cheap way in which it was carried out. If it be
remembered that the expense in the field was only one penny per acre, it
will, I think, be allowed that a very severe economy of time and money
was effected, in order to survey a country containing 6000 square miles
so completely, in so short a period as five years, and in spite of the
hindrances due to long winters, and to seasons of sickness. To keep a
party of about sixteen men and sixteen animals (not including those
required for moving camp) at the rate of one shilling and sixpence per
diem for a man and one shilling for a horse, required constant attention
and careful planning, in order to prevent a single day in the field from
being wasted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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