Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
I was seated on the ground, eating an orange, and threw away the skin,
which the old Bedawî at once seized and devoured. He then made signs to
me to mount my horse, and also signs indicative of a wish to smoke, if I
felt inclined to provide the tobacco. We went slowly back, as I now saw
that we were in the territory of a strange tribe, and was doubtful how
far my guide might be on good terms with them. As we came to the foot of
a hill, two more Arabs appeared, starting from concealment; at first
they seemed afraid, and then ran down full speed. One was a young man,
with a long gun; the other was a boy with a club, which he whirled over
his head with a threatening mien. ’Abd el Gâder gravely rebuked him, and
he dropped the weapon, saluting in the gruffest voice he could assume,
with the same short, sharp accent, which reminds one most of the
snorting of a goat or sheep when it advances in alarm on a strange dog.
Perhaps this demeanour is intended to show how brave and independent the
Bedawî feels, while really hiding a considerable amount of inward
trepidation.
The young man seized my bridle, but he let go on receiving a gentle kick
from my offside boot, and fell in with the party behind, eagerly
inquiring who I was. ’Abd el Gâder was not, I think, at his ease, but he
showed great coolness, explaining that I was an English Consul, come to
see the condition of the country. A Consul, it must be understood,
represents the highest dignity amongst Europeans in the Bedawîn eyes, as
a “Milord” does among the Lebanon mountaineers.
The immediate result of this announcement was a burst of eloquence from
the Arabs. “Look at our country, O Consul!” they said; “it has no water,
no vineyards, no corn; when will you come and give us water, and make us
vineyards?” I replied with a comprehensive nod of the head and the
remark that “God made the country for the Bedawî.” These people seem to
have a firmly-rooted conviction that Christians can command the rain,
and that they had once made vineyards in this part of the wilderness.
The new-comers next descended to the more engrossing, if less poetic,
topic of tobacco, but I pretended not to understand. These Arabs smoke
“hunting-pipes” with a stem half an inch long, and generally fill them
with dried stalks or wood-chips. They always ask either for tobacco or
for gunpowder.
We reached a high, narrow saddle, when suddenly, from a hollow, six more
men, fully armed, sprang up and joined the others, who were apparently
the advanced scouts. I rode in front at a slow pace, and carefully
refrained from looking round or showing any signs of uneasiness, as
Bedawîn eyes are very sharp in watching for symptoms of alarm which may
encourage them to bully. I confess that it is unpleasant to be followed
by ten loaded guns, in the middle of a lonely desert, without a European
to help in case of a fight, or any protection beyond the very doubtful
one of a single Bedawî of another tribe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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