Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
On Saturday the 6th of March, we moved on six and a half miles, to the
main encampment of the Jâhalîn in Wâdy Seiyâl. The wind was so strong,
that in crossing the great ridges we were scarcely able to sit on our
horses. We saw a large body of cavalry at one of the Arab encampments,
sent by the Government to settle the recent quarrel with the Dhullâm. In
the afternoon I looked down from a high ridge upon the main camp of Abu
Dahûk, and sent our scribe to announce my arrival. I then rode up to the
principal tent, and was invited to enter, but I noticed that the Arabs
were extremely surly, owing no doubt to recent defeats.
“You have brought the Tâ’amireh here,” said Abu Dahûk, a most
villainous-looking young chief, half negro in features. “Is this their
land?” I asked. “No, by the life of Allah,” he said fiercely; “all the
land to Engedi is ours.”
I told him that I had lived three years in the Arab country, and knew
their customs. “Tâ’amireh in Tâ’amireh country, Jâhâlîn in Jâhâlîn land”
were, I said, my guides and friends. This speech was received with much
satisfaction, and coffee was handed round. The tribe, however, impressed
me very unfavourably, as dirty, and ill-mannered, in comparison with
others.
In about an hour the rest of the party arrived, and the camp was set up,
but the great wind still blew fiercely, and the rain began at night.
We passed a wretched Sunday in the wind and rain, the poor horses
suffering from the cold, and standing over their fetlocks in mud. I was
pestered with visits from the Arabs, who sat and blew down their empty
pipes as a hint to me to fill them. At length Abu Dahûk asked
point-blank for a pipeful, but I told him I could not fill a “finjan”
(coffee-cup), in allusion to the enormous size of the pipe-bowls of the
whole tribe.
In the afternoon I turned out the party in order to exercise the horses
by riding them bareback. The Arabs admired this exhibition extremely,
and brought out their guns and fired them off to give greater effect to
the Fantazîa.
Monday came, and still the high wind blew and the cold drizzle
descended. Our stores had quite run out, and there was neither barley
for the horses, nor food for the men; so I ordered a march to Hebron,
sixteen miles distant, the Survey work being finished, excepting a piece
which could be done on the way.
Poor old Hamzeh, curled up on a little pony, looked the picture of
misery, though he still strove to be useful as a guide. The beasts
groaned and the dogs whined; a mule fell, and was with difficulty
reloaded; the wind blew the loads over to one side, and the beasts at
times refused to face it. By 8 p.m. the whole party was, however, safely
lodged in a Jew’s house in Hebron.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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