Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
The people of the town are remarkable for the gay colouring of their
dresses, and the Christian women for their beauty. Many a charming bit
of colour, many a shapely figure set off by picturesque costume, many a
dark eye and ruddy cheek, have I seen in the streets or by the spring.
This beauty is peculiar to the Christians of Bethlehem and Nazareth, and
various reasons are given which agree, however, in supposing a mixture
of European blood. As to the dress, the causes are manifest; the costume
is that commonly worn by Christians, and is only striking by contrast
because the villagers of the neighbouring places are Moslem; the
townsmen are also richer, and can afford better dress, and this partly
accounts for the superior beauty of the better-fed women when contrasted
with the worn faces of the overworked and half-starved peasant women of
the surrounding poor hamlets.
A more special description of the people, their dress, customs, and
religion, must, however, be reserved until they can be treated with the
rest of the natives in a future chapter: suffice it here to notice that
they present a far more pleasing and picturesque appearance than most
of the inhabitants of Syrian towns. Leaving the question for the
present, we may next turn attention to the two sacred places of
Nazareth--the Grotto of the Annunciation and the Virgin’s Spring.
The site of the Holy House was shown, as noticed above, as early as 700
A.D. in a rock-cut grotto. The pillars of the Crusading church built
round it were still visible in 1620 A.D., but the new building erected
in 1730 A.D. with the rest of the present monastery, has no connection
with the plan of the former, the foundations of which still exist
beneath. The modern church is a whitewashed, square structure, seventy
feet long and fifty broad, directed north and south. The high altar
above the sacred grotto is reached by a flight of stairs, from each side
of the seventeen marble steps which lead down to the vestibule, called
the Chapel of the Angel, where left and right are the altars of St.
Joachim and the angel Gabriel. Behind the high altar is the choir, dark
and roomy like that at Bethlehem. Descending into the grotto and passing
through the vestibule, the old Franciscan led me into the little
rock-cut chamber, with marble floor, and an altar on the north wall.
This is the outer half of the grotto, and a wall of separation divides
it from the inner half. The outer is called Grotto of the Annunciation,
the inner that of St. Joseph. From the roof of the former, which
measures twenty feet across and seven feet in depth, hangs pendant near
the west side the shaft of a red granite pillar, apparently a column of
the old chapel in the grotto, and believed to be miraculously suspended
over the very place where the angel stood when bringing the message to
Mary. Lighting the little taper on the altar, and kneeling for a moment
in prayer, the monk drew the veil from before an Italian picture of the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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