Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
As early as 700 A.D. we find Bishop Arculph visiting here a church over
the spring. The present building is only about eighty years old, but
occupies the same site. It is dedicated to St. Gabriel, and even the
Latins admit it to be on the site where first the angel became visible.
It is curious that no artist has pitched upon so charming a subject as
that suggested by a meeting with the Heavenly messenger at the Fountain,
an idea not discordant with the words of the Gospel. As in the eighth
century, so now the spring is under the floor of the church, which is
itself half subterranean. The water is led to the left of the high
altar, past a well-mouth, by which it is drawn up for pilgrims, and so
by a channel to the masonry fountain, where it comes out through metal
spouts under an arched recess broad enough for fifteen women to stand
side by side. A pool is formed below at the trough, and here the
constant succession of the Nazareth women may be seen all day filling
their great earthenware jars, standing ankle-deep in water, their pink
or green-striped baggy trousers tucked between their knees; their heads
are covered, if Moslems, with the moon-shaped tire, if Christians, with
a gay handkerchief or the hair platted in long tails. A negress in blue
here and there mingles with the crowd, which is chattering, screaming,
gossiping, and sometimes fighting.
The Protestant buildings in Nazareth are the most conspicuous, because
higher placed than either the beautiful minaret of the mosque or the
strong pile of the monastery. The hospital, presided over by Dr. Varten,
an accomplished surgeon and a kind doctor, stands towards the north; the
church, well built with a pretty garden and capable of containing five
hundred persons, is to the west, tastefully decorated within, and having
over the altar-table, in Arabic, the words read by the Saviour in the
Synagogue of Nazareth, “the Spirit of the Lord is upon me ... to preach
the Gospel to the poor; He hath sent Me to heal the broken-hearted, to
preach deliverance to the captives” (Luke iv. 18).
Highest placed of all, however, half-way up the hill, the great
orphanage has been building since 1872, and is now complete, and
designed to hold two hundred girls. It is built in the symbolic but very
inconvenient form of a cross with the sides filled in, and is but ill
designed though well executed, and externally a very fine building. From
its esplanade the town is visible, spread out almost like a map on the
lower slopes, with olive and fig-gardens, cactus hedges and yellow
threshing-floors, backed by barren stony hills.
A volume might be written on the history and topography of Nazareth, but
the present sketch is necessarily a short one. A chief feature of the
place must not, however, be forgotten--the view from the summit of the
hill by the little chapel of Neby S’ain, whose untranslatable name is a
puzzle to the residents.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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