Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and AdventureConder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
History
Tent Work in Palestine: A Record of Discovery and Adventure
Conder, C. R. (Claude Reignier)
Palestine -- Description and travel
Yet even here the absence of song-birds was very remarkable. Birds of
prey, eagles, kites, hawks, vultures, and griffons may be seen almost
anywhere in Palestine; the twittering of swallows and the screaming of
the Galilean swift are also common; the jays and the comical little
“boomehs,” as the owls are called, are always found in the olive-trees;
but only at Jericho did we come across the bulbul, and only once (near
Jerusalem) did I hear the nightingale. The noise of the cicalas in
summer in the olives, and at night the peculiar gamut of the “wâwis” or
jackals, and occasionally the bark of a hyena, and the shrill note of
the great black crickets, are the most familiar sounds in tent life.
Mujeidil being a place visited by the missionaries, we here witnessed a
curious scene. The native Protestant schoolmaster invited us to
breakfast, and to the service held by an ordained native clergyman. The
school was cool and roomy, with a bright glare through the window and
door; the flat roof of wood was supported on masonry arches at
intervals, and consisted of boughs smoke-blackened and untrimmed; the
walls and floor were shiny with plaster also stained with smoke. Hence
the effect was that so peculiar to these interiors, of broad dusky
shadow and little bright patches of light: here and there faint lines of
tobacco smoke curled in the air, and along the step of the diwan was a
row of old slippers of the congregation. Three or four pigeons flew
cooing about, and a dozen purple swallows were half hidden in the
rafters, whilst an old hen with a tuft on her head stood in a corner.
On one side sat the men, some of them great villains in appearance, in
old worn “kufeyehs” and brown “abbas;” behind them a young woman,
probably only looking in out of curiosity, to see the Franks, dressed in
the Nazareth Christian style, with the baggy trousers--a plump, dusky
face, very bright eyes, and hair all tangled. Farther on the old
schoolmaster, in a black mantle and white under-robe, hook-nosed,
bald-headed, and grey-bearded; by him eight children of various ages,
with fat, dark faces, rather pretty, but, as usual, coarse in feature,
with bright sparkling eyes, white teeth, and well-shaped mouths. One
girl had a sort of stomacher of silver coins, a second was in
pink-striped calico, with a huge black Bible. A handsome little boy wore
an olive-green jacket, a scarlet fezz, a salmon-coloured waistcoat bound
with black braid, and white trousers.
Conversation with the minister, dressed in black overcoat and white
gown, opened the proceedings; lemonade, coffee, and a cigarette
followed. All the congregation then rose, the minister removed his fezz,
and a prayer, a chapter, and a short sermon formed the service,
concluding with the Lord’s Prayer, in which all joined, and the
blessing; the whole in Arabic. The natives were reverential and
attentive, but some of the children got tired of the sermon and set to
teasing one another.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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