What in one age and at a particular place happened to be well made and
therefore was eagerly sought for, at a later period and in another
place was better wrought and at a lower price. Time, indeed, changed
the name of the market, but did not alter in any great degree either
the quality of the material or the style of the design wrought upon it.
Throughout the kingdom of the Byzantine Greeks the loom had to change
its gearing very little. The Saracenic loom, whether in Asia, Africa,
or Spain, was always Arabic, though Persia could not forget her old
traditions about the “hom” or tree of life, and cheetahs, and birds
of various sorts. With regard to the whole of Asia, its many peoples
from the earliest ages knew how not only to weave cloth of gold but
to figure it with birds and beasts. In later times, Marco Polo in the
thirteenth century found exactly the same kinds of textile known in the
days of Darius still everywhere, from the shores of the Mediterranean
to the far east. What he says of Bagdad he repeats in fewer words
about many other cities. In finding their way to England these fabrics
received, if not in all at least in most instances, the names of the
seaports in the Mediterranean where they had been shipped.
For beautifully wrought and figured silk, one of the few terms that
still outlive the mediæval period is Damask.
China, no doubt, was the first country to ornament its silken webs with
a pattern. India, Persia, and Syria, then Byzantine Greece, followed,
but at long intervals between, in China’s footsteps. Stuffs so figured
brought with them to the west the name “diaspron” or diaper, bestowed
upon them at Constantinople. But about the twelfth century the city of
Damascus, even then long celebrated for its looms, so far outstripped
all other places for beauty of design that her silken textiles were in
demand everywhere; and thus, as often happens, traders fastened the
name of Damascen or Damask upon every silken fabric richly wrought and
curiously designed, no matter whether it came or not from Damascus. At
last, samit, having long been the epithet betokening all that was rich
and good in silk, was forgotten, and diaper, from being the very word
significant of pattern, became a secondary term descriptive of merely a
part in the elaborate design on damask.
Baudekin, that sort of costly cloth of gold spoken of so much during so
many years in English literature, took (as was said before) its famous
name from Bagdad. Many specimens of baudekin in the South Kensington
collection furnish proofs of the ancient weavers’ dexterity in their
management of the loom, and especially of the artists’ taste in setting
out their intricate and beautiful designs. An identification between
very many samples there brought together of ancient textiles in silk
and the descriptions of similar stuffs given us in those valuable
records, our old church inventories, might be carried on if necessary
to a very lengthened extent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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