Dorneck was the name given to an inferior kind of damask wrought of
silk, wool, linen thread and gold, in Flanders. This was manufactured
towards the end of the fifteenth century mostly at Tournay; which city
in Flemish was often called Dorneck--a word variously spelt as Darnec,
Darnak, Darnick, and sometimes even Darness.
The guild of the blessed Virgin at Boston had a care cloth of “silke
dornex” and church furniture. The “care cloth” was a sort of canopy
held over the bride and bridegroom as they knelt for the nuptial
blessing, according to the Salisbury rite, at the marriage mass. At
Exeter dorneck was used in chasubles for orphreys. A specimen of
dorneck may be seen, no. 7058. It is several times mentioned in the
York fabric rolls.
Buckram, so called from Bokkara where it was originally made, in the
middle ages was much esteemed for being costly and very fine; and
consequently fit for use in church vestments and for secular personal
wear. “Panus Tartaricus” or Tartary cloth is often spoken of. John
Grandison, bishop of Exeter in 1327, gave to his cathedral flags of
white and red buckram; and among the five very rich veils for covering
the moveable lectern in that church three were lined with blue
“bokeram.” As late as the beginning of the sixteenth century this stuff
was held good enough for lining to a black velvet gown for a queen,
Elizabeth of York. The coarse thick fabric which now goes by the name
is very different from the older production known as “bokeram.”
Burdalisaunder, Bordalisaunder, Bourde de Elisandre, with other
varieties in spelling, is a term often to be met with in old wills and
church inventories. In the year 1327 Exeter had a chasuble of Bourde de
Elisandre of divers colours: and from the Yorkshire wills we find that
sometimes it was wide enough for half a piece to form the adornment of
a high altar.
“Bord” in Arabic means a striped cloth; and we know, both from
travellers and the importation of the textile itself, that many tribes
in north and eastern Africa weave stuffs for personal wear of a pattern
consisting of white and black longitudinal stripes. St. Augustin,
living in north Africa near the modern Algiers, speaks of a stuff
for clothing called “burda” in the end of the fourth and beginning
of the fifth century. It is not impossible that the curtains for the
tabernacle as well as the girdles for Aaron and his sons, of fine
linen and violet and purple and scarlet twice dyed, were wrought with
this very pattern, so that in the “burd Alisaunder” we behold the
oldest known design for any textile. This stuff in the middle ages
was a silken web in different coloured stripes, and specimens also
may be found at South Kensington. Though made in many places round
the Mediterranean this silk took its name, at least in England, from
Alexandria.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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