Other cities besides Tarsus gave their names to various shades of
purple; according as they were dyed at Antioch, Alexandria, or Naples.
Each place had a particular shade which distinguished it from the
others. It is not now possible to ascertain what were the exact
distinctions of tint. Sky-blue was a colour everywhere in church use
for certain festivals throughout England. In the early inventories the
name for that tint is “Indicus,” “Indus,” reminding us of our present
_indigo_. In later lists it is called “Blodius,” not sanguinary but
blue. Murrey, or a reddish brown, is also often specified.
Silks woven of two colours, so that one of them showed itself unmixed
and quite distinct on one side, and the second appeared equally clear
on the other--a thing sometimes now looked upon as a wonder in modern
weaving--might occasionally be met with here at the mediæval period:
Exeter cathedral had, in 1327, a silk cloth “of red colour inside and
yellow outside.” At York, in 1543, there was “a vestment of changeable
silke,” “besides one of changeable taffety for Good Friday.”
Marble silk had a weft of several colours so woven as to make the
whole web look like marble, stained with a variety of tints. There were
many such vestments in old St. Paul’s. During full three centuries
this marble silk found great favour among us; for Henry Machyn, in his
curious diary, tells us how “the old qwyne of Schottes rod thrught
London,” and how “then cam the lord tresorer with a C. gret horsse and
ther cotes of marbull,” etc., to meet her the 6th of November, 1551.
CHAPTER VIII.
We must now speak of embroidery. The art of working with the needle
flowers, fruits, human and animal forms, or any fanciful design, upon
webs woven of silk, linen, cotton, wool, hemp, besides other kinds of
stuff, is of the highest antiquity.
Those patterns, after so many fashions, which we see figured upon the
garments worn by men and women on Egyptian and Assyrian monuments, but
especially on the burned-clay vases made and painted by the Greeks in
their earliest as well as in later times, or which we read about in the
writings of that people, were not wrought in the loom, but worked by
the needle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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