The old Egyptian loom--and that of the Jews must have been like
it--was, as we know from paintings, of the simplest shape, and seems to
have been able to do little more diversified in design than straight
lines in different colours; and at best nothing higher in execution
than checker-work: beyond this, all was put in by hand with the
needle. In Paris, at the Louvre, are several pieces of early Egyptian
webs coloured, drawings of which have been published by Sir Gardner
Wilkinson in his work ‘The Egyptians in the time of the Pharaohs.’
There are two pieces wrought up and down with needlework; the second
piece of blue is figured all over in white embroidery with a pattern
of netting, the meshes of which shut in irregular cubic shapes, and
in the lines of the reticulation the mystic “fylfot” is seen. Sir
J. G. Wilkinson says of them: “They are mostly cotton, and, though
their date is uncertain, they suffice to show that the manufacture
was Egyptian; and the many dresses painted on the monuments of the
eighteenth dynasty show that the most varied patterns were used by the
Egyptians more than 3000 years ago, as they were at a later period by
the Babylonians, who became noted for their needlework.”
It is clear from the book of Exodus that the Israelites from very early
times, having learnt the art in Egypt, embroidered their garments;
although the word “embroidery” which occurs so frequently in every
English version probably sometimes means merely weaving in stripes, and
not work with the needle. The embroidering also of the sails of vessels
was not uncommon in the east; boats used in sacred festivals on the
Nile were so decorated; and the prophet Ezekiel says to the people of
Tyre, “Fine linen with broidered work from Egypt, was that which thou
spreadest forth to be thy sail.” The reader will here also remember
Shakspeare’s description of the barge of Cleopatra;
The barge she sat in, like a burnished throne
Burned on the water:
Purple the sails, and so perfumed, that
The winds were love-sick with them; she did lie
In her pavilion, cloth of gold, of tissue, etc.
Pliny says that the Phrygians invented embroidery, and that garments
so ornamented were called Phrygionic. Of such a fashion were “the
art-wrought vests of splendid purple tint” brought forth by Dido, and
the cloak given by Andromache to Ascanius. Hence, an embroiderer was
called in Latin “Phrygio,” and needlework “Phrygium” or “Phrygian”
work. When the design, as often happened, was wrought in solid
gold wire or golden thread, the embroidery so worked was named
“auriphrygium.” From this term comes the old English word “orphrey.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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