While Phrygia in general, Babylon in particular (as Pliny also tells
us) became celebrated for the beauty of its embroideries. All who have
seen the sculptures in the British museum brought from Nineveh, and
described and figured by Layard, must have remarked how lavishly the
Assyrians adorned their robes with the needlework for which one of
their greatest cities was so famous. Up to the first century of our era
the reputation which Babylon had won for her textiles and needlework
still lived. We know from Josephus, who had often been to worship at
Jerusalem, that the veils of the Temple were Babylonian; and of the
outer one that writer says: “there was a veil of equal largeness with
the door. It was a Babylonian curtain, embroidered with blue and fine
linen, and scarlet and purple, and of a texture that was wonderful.”
What the Jews did for the Temple we may be sure was done by Christians
for the Church. The faithful, however, went even further, and wore
garments figured all over with sacred subjects in embroidery. We learn
this from a stirring sermon preached by St. Asterius, bishop of Amasia
in Pontus, in the fourth century. Taking for his text “a certain rich
man who was clothed in purple and fine linen” he upbraids the world for
its follies in dress, and complains that some people went about arrayed
like painted walls, with beasts and flowers all over them; while
others, pretending a more serious tone of thought, dressed in clothes
depicting the doings and wonders of our Lord. “Strive,” St. Asterius
exhorts them, “to follow in your lives the teachings of the Gospel,
rather than have the miracles of our Redeemer embroidered upon your
outward dress.” To have had so many subjects shown upon one garment
it is clear that each must have been done very small, and wrought in
outline; a style which is being brought back, with great effect, into
modern ecclesiastical use.
The discriminating accuracy with which our old writers noted the
several kinds of textile gifts bestowed upon a church is as instructive
as praiseworthy. Ingulph did not think it enough to say that abbot
Egelric had given many hangings to the church at Croyland, the great
number of which were silken, but he explains also that some were
ornamented with birds wrought in gold and sewed on; in fact, of
cut-work; others with those birds woven into the stuff; others quite
plain. We find the same care taken in old inventories.
By the latter end of the thirteenth century embroidery obtained for
its several styles and various sorts of ornamentation a distinguishing
and technical nomenclature. One of the earliest documents in which
we meet with this set of terms is the inventory drawn up, in 1295,
of the vestments belonging to St. Paul’s cathedral, printed by
Dugdale: herein, the “opus plumarium,” the “opus pectineum,” the
“opus pulvinarium,” “consutum de serico,” “de serico consuto,” may be
severally found.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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