English embroidery afterwards lost its first high reputation. Through
those years wasted with the wars of the Roses the work of the English
needle was very poor, very coarse, and, so to say, ragged; as, for
instance, the chasuble at South Kensington, no. 4045. Nothing of the
celebrated chain-stitch with dimpled faces in the figures can be found
about it: every part is worked in the feather-stitch, slovenly put
down. During the early part of the seventeenth century our embroiderers
again struck out a new style, which consisted in throwing up the
figures a good height above the grounding. Of this raised work there
is a fine specimen in the fourth of the copes preserved in the chapter
library at Durham. It is said to have been wrought for and given by
Charles the first to that cathedral. This red silk vestment is well
sprinkled with bodiless cherubic heads crowned with rays and borne up
by wings; while upon the hood is David, holding in one hand the head
of Goliah; the whole done in highly raised embroidery. Bibles of the
large folio size, covered in rich silk or satin and embroidered with
the royal arms done in bold raised-work, are still to be found in our
libraries. More than one of these volumes is said to have been a gift
from the king to a forefather of the present owner.
This style of raised embroidery remained in use for many years. Not
only large Bibles but smaller volumes, especially prayer-books, had
bindings enriched with it. Generally such examples are attributed,
and in most cases wrongly, to the so-called nuns of Little Gidding.
The same kind of work is sometimes found on the broad frames of old
looking-glasses: setting forth perhaps, as in the specimen no. 892, the
story of Ahasuerus and Esther, or a passage in some courtship carried
on after the manners of Arcadia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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