The seemliness, not to say comfort, of private life was improved by
the use of textiles. Let the historian contrast the custom even in a
royal palace, during the middle ages, with that now followed in every
tradesman’s home. Then straw and rushes were strewed in houses upon the
floor in every room; and Wendover, in his life of St. Thomas, speaks of
the king’s courtiers platting knots with the litter, and flinging them
with a gibe at a man who had been slighted by the prince. Not quite
a hundred years later when Eleanor of Castile came to London for her
marriage with our first Edward she found her lodgings furnished, under
the directions of the Spanish courtiers who had arrived before her,
with hangings and curtains of silk around the walls, and carpets spread
upon the ground. This offended some of the people; more of them, as
Matthew Paris records, laughed at the thought that such costly things
were laid down to be walked upon.
Take, again, the famous Syon cope. Not only is it full of interest to
writers upon liturgies and rituals but of even more to the herald and
genealogist. Covered as its orphreys are with armorial bearings, this
cope carries with it evidences as important and as valuable as any
contemporary roll of arms; and no inquirer into the pedigrees of the
ancient families of the Percies or Ferrers, of Cliffords or Botelers,
and of many others, can afford to neglect it.
We have several records of evidence in courts of law taken from
heraldic embroideries upon robes and vestments. In the famous
controversy between the houses of Scrope and Grosvenor, in the
fourteenth century, inquiries were made and proofs were offered on both
sides as to the right of bearing upon their shields the bend _or_ upon
a field _azure_. Witnesses produced at Westminster corporas cases,
copes, and albs embroidered with the arms of Scrope. Chaucer was one of
the witnesses; and said he had seen those arms on banners and vestments
and commonly called the arms of Scrope. Again; the fact that in her
wardrobe was found a vestment embroidered with the royal arms was
brought forward to prove the charge of treason against the old countess
of Salisbury, the mother of cardinal Pole; and for which crime she was
condemned.
Collections of ancient textiles are of still greater use to students
of ecclesiastical history and church rituals than even to the secular
historian. It is probable that the greater number of the specimens
which now exist formed originally portions of sacred vestments and
furniture for altars. Formerly so common, fragments even of such cloths
and robes have become of very great rarity, especially in England;
where for the last two or three centuries the use of the numerous old
church vestments and decorations has entirely ceased.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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