Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
However accurate such a statement may be regarding Italy in general,
and Tuscany in particular, it is, nevertheless, utterly untrue as
applicable to the rest of the world. In this collection may be seen a
valuable piece of this same cut-work--or as Vasari would call it “di
commesso”--by French hands, fraught with a story out of our English
Romance, and done towards the end of the fourteenth century, No. 1370,
p. 76. Now, as Botticelli was born A.D. 1457, and died A.D. 1515, he
came into being almost a whole century too late to have originated such
a process of ornamental needlework, which was well known and practised
in these parts so many years before the birth of that Florentine
painter.
[333] Vite de’ piu Eccellenti Pittori, &c., di G. Vasari, t. v. p. 121;
English translation, t. ii. p. 239.
There are some accessories, in mediæval embroidery, which ought not to
be overlooked here.
In some few instances,
GOLD, AND SILVER GILT,
in very many more, wrought after the smith’s cunning into little
star-like flowers--broader, bigger, and more craftily fashioned than
our modern spangles--are to be found sewed upon the silks or amid the
embroidery in the specimens before us, particularly those from Venice
and its main-land provinces in Italy, and from Southern Germany. At No.
8274, pp. 168-9, we have a part of an orphrey embroidered on parchment,
and having along with its coral, gold beads, and seed pearls, small
bosses and ornaments in gilded silver stars; it is Venetian, and of
the second half of the twelfth century. No. 8307, pp. 185-6 is a linen
amice, the silken apparel of which has sewed to it large spangle-like
plates in gilded silver struck with a variety of patterns, showing
how the goldsmith’s hand had been sought by the Germans of the
fifteenth century to give beauty to this silken stuff. The fine piece
of ruby-tinted Genoa velvet, which was once the apparel for the lower
hem of an alb, is sprinkled somewhat thickly with six-rayed stars of
gold and silver; but those made of the latter metal have turned almost
black: here we have a sample of Lombard taste in this matter, of the
ending of the fifteenth century. Silver-gilt spangles wrought to figure
six-petalled flowers on a fine example of gold tissue, under No. 8588,
pp. 222-3, present us with a German craftsman’s work, in the fourteenth
century. No. 8612, p. 233, is not without its value in reference to
Italian taste. All over, this curious now fragmental piece of silk
damask, has at one time been thickly strewed with trefoils cut out of
gilt metal, but very thin, and not sewed but glued on to the silk: many
of these leaves have fallen off, and those remaining turned black.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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