Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
From the original bill for fitting out one of the ships in which
Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, during the reign of Henry VI., went over to
France, where he had been appointed to a high command, we gather hints
which throw light upon this as well as several matters belonging to
this Introduction. Among other items for the above-named equipage are
these:--“Four hundred pencils (long narrow strips, may be of silk, used
as flags), beat with the Raggedstaff in silver; the other pavys (one
of two shields, likely of wood, and fastened outside the ship at its
bows), painted with black, and a Raggedstaff beat with silver occupying
all the field; one coat (perhaps of silk, but no doubt blazoned with
the Beauchamp’s arms,) for my Lord’s body, beat with fine gold; two
coats (like the foregoing) for heralds, beat with demi gold; a great
streamer for a ship of forty yeards in length and eight yeards in
breadth, with a great Bear and Griffin holding a Raggedstaff poudred
full of Raggedstaffs; three penons (small flags) of satten; sixteen
standards of worsted entailed with the Bear and a chain.”[346] The
quatrefoils on the robe of our First Edward, the silver lions on the
Glastonbury cope, the beasts and birds on the lady’s gown, the Bear,
and Griffin, and Raggedstaff belonging to the Beauchamp’s blazoning,
and all such like enrichments--mostly heraldic--put upon silken stuffs,
were cut out of very thin plates of gold or silver, so as to hang upon
them lightly, and were hammered up to show in low relief the fashion
of the flower and the lineaments of the beast or bird meant to be
represented.
In fact, such a style of ornamentation done in gold or silver, stitched
on silken stuffs made up into liturgical garments, knights’ coats of
arms, ladies’ dresses, heralds’ tabards, or flags and penoncels, was
far more common once than is now thought. It had struck out for itself
a technical expression. In speaking of it men would either write
or say, “silk beaten with gold or silver,” as the case might be--a
meaning, by the way, for the word “beat,” quite overlooked by our
lexicographers; yet, making her will as late as the year 1538, Barbara
Mason bequeathed to a church “a vestment of grene sylke betyn with
goold.”[347]
[343] Ancient English Metrical Romances, t. iii. pp. 8, 9.
[344] Close Rolls, ed. D. Hardy, p. 193.
[345] Dugdale, p. 318.
[346] Dugdale’s Baronage of England, i. 246.
[347] Bury Wills, p. 134.
The badge on the arm of the livery coat once commonly worn, and
yet rowed for by the Thames watermen, as well as the armorials
figured, before and behind, upon the fine old picturesque frocks
of our buffetiers--the yeomen of the Royal guard, called in London
“beefeaters,”--help to keep up the tradition of such a style of
ornament in dress.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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