Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
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Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
In this country such a sort of embroidering was called
net-work--filatorium--as we learn from the Exeter Inventory, where
we read that its cathedral possessed, A.D. 1327, three pieces of
it, for use at the altar--one in particular for throwing over the
desk: “tria filatoria linea, unde unum pro desco.”[348] From their
liturgical use, as we have noticed, p. 212, they were more generally
named lectern-veils, and as such are spoken of, in the same Devonshire
document: “i lectionale de panno lineo operato de opere acuali,
&c.”[349] Of those narrow, light, and moveable lecterns over which
these linen embroideries were cast, Exeter had three--two of wood,
another which folded up (see p. 212 here,) of iron: “i descus volubilis
de ferro, pro Evangelio supra legendo; ii alia lectrina lignea.”[350]
Almost every one of these thread embroideries were wrought during
the fourteenth century, and several of them for the service of the
sanctuary, either as reredos, frontal, or lectern-veil; and while those
described at pp. 19, 20, 31, 53, 60, 71, 99, 120, 242-3, 249, 261-7,
deserve consideration, a more complete and an especial notice is due
to those two very fine ones under Nos. 8358, p. 210, and 8618, p. 235.
As early as A.D. 1295, St. Paul’s had a cushion covered with knotted
thread: “pulvinar opertum de albo filo nodato.”[351]
[348] Ed. Oliver, p. 312.
[349] Ib. p. 356.
[350] Ib. p. 329.
[351] Dugdale, p. 316.
QUILTING,
too, must not be forgotten here; and a short look at Nos. 727, p. 14,
and 786, p. 16, will be sufficient to make us understand how, in hands
guided by taste, a work of real, though humble art, may be brought out
and shewn upon any article, from a lady’s skirt to a gentleman’s daily
skull-cap, by such a use of the needle.
_Crochet_, knitting done with linen thread, and in the convents
throughout Flanders, as well as the thick kinds of lace wrought there
upon the cushion with bobbins, came, under the name of nun’s lace, to
be everywhere much employed, from the sixteenth century and upwards,
for bordering altar-cloths, albs, and every sort of towel required in
the celebration of the liturgy. No. 1358, p. 72, is a good example.
SECTION III.--TAPESTRY.
Though regarding actual time so very old, still in comparison with
weaving and embroidery, the art of tapestry is, it would seem, the
youngest of the three.
It is neither real weaving, nor true embroidery, but unites in its
working those two processes into one. Though wrought in a loom and upon
a warp stretched out along its frame, it has no woof thrown across
those threads with a shuttle or any like appliance, but its weft is
done with many short threads, all variously coloured, and put in by
a kind of needle. It is not embroidery, though so very like it, for
tapestry is not worked upon what is really a web--having both warp and
woof--but upon a series of closely set fine strings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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