Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
Pieces of English-made tapestry still remain. That fine, though
mutilated specimen at St. Mary’s Hall, Coventry, is one; a second is
the curious reredos for an altar, belonging to the London Vintners’
Company; it is figured with St. Martin on horseback cutting with his
sword his cloak in two, that he might give one-half to a beggar man;
and with St. Dunstan singing mass, and wrought by the monks of St.
Alban’s.
Though practised far and wide, the art of weaving tapestry became
most successfully followed in many parts of France and throughout
ancient Flanders where secular trade-gilds were formed for its especial
manufacture, in many of its towns. Several of these cities won for
themselves an especial fame; but so far, at last, did Arras outrun
them all that arras-work came, in the end, to be the common word, both
here and on the Continent, to mean all sorts of tapestry, whether
wrought in England or abroad. Thus is it, we think, that those fine
hangings for the choir of Canterbury Cathedral, now at Aix-en-Provence,
though made at home, perhaps too by his own monks, and given to that
church by Prior Goldston, A.D. 1595, are spoken of as, not indeed from
Arras, but arras-work--“pannos pulcherrimos opere de arysse subtiliter
intextos.”[356]
Arras is but one among several other terms by which, during the middle
ages, tapestry was called.
From the Saracens, it is likely Western Europe learned the art: at
all events its earliest name in Christendom was Saracenic work--“opus
Saracenicum”--and as our teachers, we too wrought in a low or
horizontal loom. The artizans of France and Flanders were the first
to bring forwards the upright or vertical frame, afterwards known
abroad as “de haute lisse,” in contradistinction to the low or
horizontal frame called “de basse lisse.” Those who went on with the
latter unimproved loom, though thorough good Christians, came to be
known, in the trade, as Saracens, for keeping to the method of their
paynim teachers; and their produce, Saracenic. In year 1339 John de
Croisettes, a Saracen-tapestry worker, living at Arras, sells to the
Duke of Touraine a piece of gold Saracenic tapestry figured with the
story of Charlemaine: “Jean de Croisettes, tapissier Sarrazinois
demeurant à Arras, vend au Duc de Touraine un tapis Sarrazinois à or de
l’histoire de Charlemaine.”[357] Soon however the high frame put out
of use the low one; and among the many pieces of tapestry belonging
to Philippe Duke of Bourgogne and Brabant, very many are especially
entered as of the high frame, and one of them is thus described:--“ung
grant tapiz de haulte lice, sauz or, de l’istoire du duc Guillaume de
Normandie comment il conquist Engleterre.”[358]
[356] Anglia Sacra, t. i. p. 148.
[357] Voisin, p. 4.
[358] Les Ducs de Bourgogne, par le Comte de Laboure, t. ii. p. 270.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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