Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the MuseumRock, Daniel
History
Textile Fabrics: A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, forming that Section of the Museum
Rock, Daniel
Art objects -- England -- London -- Catalogs; Textile fabrics
About the time of Richard II. the white hart seems to have been a
favourite element in ornamental needlework here in England, for Lincoln
cathedral had “a red velvet cope set with white harts lying, colours
(with collars?) full of these letters S S ... the harts having crowns
upon their necks with chains, silver and gilt,” &c.[436] So thoroughly
national at the time was this emblem that we believe every piece of
silken textile to be found here or elsewhere had its design sketched
in this country and sent to Palermo to be woven there in stuffs for
the use of the English court. When his order had been done, the weaver
having his loom geared at our king’s expense, threw off a certain
quantity of the same pattern for home use or his trade with Germany;
and hence we see such a beautiful variation figured on the apparels
upon the old alb, No. 8710, p. 268 of the catalogue. The eagle shown
all in gold, with a crown not on but above its head, may refer to one
of Richard’s ancestors, the King of the Romans, who never reigned as
such. The hart, collared and lodged in its park, is Richard’s own
emblem. That dog, collared and courant, has a story of its own in
Richard’s eventful life. Dogs when petted and great favourites, were
always arrayed in ornamented collars; hence we must not be surprised
to find put down among the things of value kept in the Treasury of the
Exchequer:--“ii grehondes colers of silk enbrouded with lettres of gold
and garnyssed with silver and overgilt.”[437] Telling of Richard’s
capture in Flint castle by the Earl of Derby, soon afterwards Henry
IV., Froissart says:--“King Richard had a greyhound called Math,
beautiful beyond measure who would not notice nor follow any one but
the king. Whenever the king rode abroad the greyhound was loosed by
the person who had him in charge, and ran instantly to caress him, by
placing his two fore feet on his shoulders. It fell out that as the
king and the Duke of Lancaster were conversing in the court of the
castle, their horses being ready for them to mount, the greyhound was
untied, but instead of running as usual to the king, he left him, and
leaped to the Duke of Lancaster’s shoulders, paying him every court,
and caressing him as he was formerly used to caress the king. The duke
asked the king, ‘What does this mean?’ ‘Cousin,’ replied the king, ‘it
means a great deal for you, and very little for me. This greyhound
fondles and pays his court to you this day as King of England.’”[438]
That such a pet as Math once so given to fawn upon his royal master
should, with other emblematic animals, have been figured in the pattern
on a textile meant for its master’s wear, or that of his court, seems
very likely: and thus the piece before us possesses a more than
ordinary interest.
[436] Mon. Anglic. t. viii. p. 1281, ed. Caley.
[437] Antient Kalendars and Inventories, ed. Palgrave, t. ii. p. 252.
[438] Froissart’s Chronicles, by Johnes, t. ii. chap. cxiii. p. 692.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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